MISE EN BOUTEILLE - A WINE BLOG

Please continue reading at Wine Virtuosity

2011-03-09T14:18:00.000+01:00

Both Mise en bouteille and Passion for Portugal are now history. To continue following my mumbo jumbo please visit Wine Virtuosity. There's some postings on Sicily at the moment. Quite nice wines if I may say so....

If you're one of the kind people linking my old blogs I'd be grateful if you would have a look at the new site - and perhaps update the link? Thanks!

Good bye Mise en bouteille. Hello Wine Virtuosity!

2011-03-07T02:17:00.001+01:00

Two weeks since the last post! No, I haven't been on vacation to a place without internet access. The seasonal diseases hasn't been kind to my family. To that, add my work on meeting my own New Year's resolution - turning my blogs into their own domains. Last week I launched my Mad about Madeira site. Today it's time to say good bye to Mise on bouteille and Passion for Portugal.

It's a bit sad to say bye to a name I've come to identify myself with, a name I registered at Blogger in May 2008. On the other side, it inspires me more to have an own domain and more powerful tools to work with.

Mise en bouteille is out. I have, for several reasons chosen not to register it at an odd dot, but mostly to eliminate a potential conflict of interests (there are a company in Europe with that name). From now on you will find me at Wine Virtuosity. All my posts from my blogs have been merged into my new site so nothing is lost. Passion for Portugal disappears as well and I will try to write my usual share on Portugal on the new site.

Both Wine Virtuosity and my other site, Mad about Madeira, do have their own pages at Facebook as well. Twitter is still the same.

Welcome to my new sites! It would mean a lot to me if you would like to continue following me and perhaps also join at FB.

First new post published already. A starting post on my Sicilian adventures - the Perricone grape.

Christos Kokkalis; Checking out the 2008 vintage

2011-02-21T13:37:00.001+01:00

It can't be that fun being Greek. Not at the moment that is. Greece's economy is the villain of the piece and wherever you read there's someone demanding the country to speed up its reform making. Do you want to support the Greeks? Then start reforming the way you look at Greek wines and buy some of the brilliant stuff Christos Kokkalis offers!

Last year I had Markus Stolz guest-starring on Mise en bouteille. I do hope he updated your view on Greek wines and inspired some to pick up a bottle or two. Personally I had a hopelessly archaic picture of Greece which basically could be narrowed down to my own trips to the Greek archipelago - and bottles of Naoussa Boutari as the premium wine on the restaurants. I know, I should be ashamed. Some great Assyrtiko's changed that though but especially Christos Kokkalis and his fabulous Trilogia Cabernet Sauvignon had me rethinking my view of Greek wines.

Let's do some repetition. Working as a pharmacist for a big part of his life in Germany, Christos also attended some wine classes to build up his theoretical skills in wine-making. Then, in the 90's he purchased a small vineyard in the western Peloponessos and started planting his Cabernet's - turning the theoretical knowledge into real stuff. It didn't take long before Christos started to receive acknowledgment for what he was doing and I can't help but wonder how much a winemaker actually is an artist or just an educated winemaker?

Christos clearly demonstrates in his wines that he's more than a pharmacist. He's an artist as well. I guess some just has that special 'je ne sais quoi' feeling when it comes to producing great wines - with or without any major prior training. Christos started the production of Trilogia in 1997. The vineyards are organically farmed and he treats the Trilogia with great respect; no fining or filtration, low yields and no water irrigation. The wine spends 18 months on French and American oak.

Besides the Trilogia he produces Mova, a blend of Agiorgitiko and Cabernet Sauvignon, and a Syrah. I've now tasted them all; the 2008 Mova, the 2008 Syrah and the 2008 Trilogia (the last one on four occasions as I seem incapable of keeping the corkscrew away!).

Here's the verdict of the Mise en bouteille jury:

2008 Mova, Agiorgitiko-Cabernet Sauvignon (EUR 14,50)

No doubt, this is the most Greek wine of the three. Greek in that sense there is a style I can name as typical for Greek wines if I may generalize. Not as dark in color as the other two, the Mova shows an early drinkability. On the nose it is generous with scents of leather, herbs, cherries, blackcurrants, bay-leafs and a summer dusty road. Rustic but easy to fall in love with.

Harmonious palate with fine and most present acidity. Cherries, tobacco, leather and humus. It has mature tannins and a fine refreshing blackcurrant and herbaceous aftertaste. What easy-drinking this is but still with lots of personality and also depth. Will benefit from a further two or three years cellaring but it doesn't hurt at all drinking it today. (88-89 p)

2008 Syrah (EUR 29)

Dark color. Popped on Saturday evening and allowed to breathe for an hour which was too short. Therefore half the bottle is kept to the next day and then the wine shows its awesome potential. Perhaps not fully reaching up to the Trilogia quality but friends of Syrah wont be disappointed on this one. Elegant yet massive aromas of dark berries, spices (bay-leafs, clove, black pepper), meat, wet rocks, balsamico vinegar and fine toasted oak. As most competent Syrah wines it chews oak for breakfast. I must admit the bouquet is right up my alley and it is easy to just keep sniffing and sniffing on this one.

Seductive pure fruit, toasted vanilla oak, humus, plum skin, blackberries, dark cherries, spices and sausages. Again, easy to like and extremely well put together. Just like the Trilogia there a terroir feel that is new to me. Need to dig further into that because the style is thrilling! The tannins are massive but there's enough fruit, acidity and harmony to predict a long life. The fruit seems
sweet but the feeling is a bone dry red. Christos, you rock! (91-92 points)

2008 Trilogia (EUR 29,90)

Tasting the wine I am immediately flattered by the almost Californian air this wine sends out. Still, there's a minerality I haven't bumped into before, a spiciness sending me to the Rhone Valley and then there's this fresh mint scent reminding me of great Medoc Cabernet Sauvignon.

The barrique is well integrated and not at all dominating, although they are present with the scents of ground coffee, dark chocolate and a slight vanilla note. It's the floral, humus, blackcurrants, blueberries, mint and spices that caught my attention. It's dense and has that feeling of a high class wine on the nose. Still in its primary phase but I tell you, it doesn't hurt to drink - unless you're afraid of tannins because the 2008's tannin structure knocks you!

On the palate it is, besides the impressive tannins, a dry wine full of sun-drenched blackcurrants and blueberries with floral notes, oak, bay leafs and fresh tobacco. It has plenty of fruit to cope with the tannins and the acidity is in harmony with the other components. Long and pure aftertaste with a floral touch to it. (93-94 points)

Let's start talking more about Peloponessos terroir because these wines are worthy all passionate wine consumers attention. I just need your help; please give me more Greek producers, wines and regions to discover. What should I drink? Suggestions please!

You can find the Kokkalis wines here.

PS. My tasting notes are always a span of two scores in order not to become too static. If a score is underlined it is my opinion of the wine at the very moment I tasted it.

PS.2. Read more about Christos here.

Roberto Cipresso; squaring the circle

2011-02-19T12:56:00.001+01:00

Mathematician or not; you've probably still heard about it. Quadratura del cerchio, squaring the circle.

One of the classic challenges for the Euclidean geometry is the constructing of a square with the same area as a given circle by using only a finite number of steps with compass and straightedge. Proven in 1882 by the Lindemann–Weierstrass theorem to be an impossible task .Today we use the expression "squaring the circle" as a metaphor for doing something logically or intuitively impossible.

So, why does Roberto Cipresso name his attempt to unite Italy via the wine bottle Quadratura del Cerchio? Perche é impossibile?

I'm a big fan of Roberto. His Sicilian project Pigreco delivers and so does his Eureka from Tuscany. But perhaps it is his adventures in Mendoza together with Achaval-Ferrer that takes him to the top?

Uniting Italy. Via a wine. Roberto's Quadratura del Cerchio combines compatible terroirs from different parts of Italy . There's no limits. His only concern is that they blend well together. In 2005 he mixed Syrah from Sicily, Brunello from Tuscany and Sangiovese from Maremma. In his latest version, the 2006, he blends Syrah from Sicily, Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese from Colline Chiantigiane.

Friends of those modern reds from Tuscany more or less bathing in new barriques, will be disappointed when having the wine. So will those which hopes to find a northern Rhone resembly or a mini-Ausone hiding in the bottle. Roberto's 2006 clearly shows spicy Syrah from a warm region mixed with dark Tuscany cherries. Fine and lingering acidity. I could be mean and say i don't find any Cabernet Franc scents but then I would forget about the purpose of the wine, uniting terroirs .

Dark cherries, leather, dried tobacco, spices, licorice and also slight sense of scorched earth. Held back on the nose, probably needing some more bottle age. On the palate it is Tuscan, oh yes, with that fine iron feeling, morello's, tobacco and bay leafs. Just a slight hint of oak. Fine balance and depth thanks to the acidity. The tannins are present but caressing the palate.

If this is an impossible challenge I leave to the Italians to decide, but perhaps it should be served nation wide on the 17th of March this year, when the country commemorates the 150th anniversary of the Italian Republic?

(2006 Quadratura del Cerchio, Roberto Cipresso, 90-91 p)

Can be purchased here.

10 signs why Cheetah fur isn't the thing....

2011-02-16T01:01:00.001+01:00

A picture says a thousand words. Or, as in this case, awakens just as many. What message does the label transmit? Is it:

"Sometimes I just take an old cheetah fur, some grapes around my head, my Holy Grail, pop a mag and walk on sunshine..."

"I know, but all my clothes were in the laundry basket."

"Dude, where's the party!"

*

"Who killed the cat?"

*

"Greetings friends. I am Jean-Baptiste, your conferencier for the evening."

*

"Casual Dezaley Friday?"

*

"You try selling a Chasselas at 20+ Euros!"

*

"Our target group are guys who like to dress Cheetah style."

*

"No animals were harmed during the making of this label."

*

"Come on and safari with me." (Sorry Beach Boys...)

PS. Despite the label this is seriously good stuff. Posts on Swiss wines on the way....

PS.2. Yes, I've heard fur is trendy again but this is not what I visualized I must confess. Guess I'm getting old..

High-altitude Müller-Thurgau is, is, is....awesome!

2011-02-13T16:50:00.003+01:00

For long it was believed to be a crossing between Riesling and Sylvaner. I remember already 15+ years ago, in my early fumbling in the world of wine, that I didn't get it. That is; take two quality grapes (yes, I do consider Sylvaner being one), cross them and you have the goodies of each grape. But how on earth could Riesling and Sylvaner end up in a Müller-Thurgau! Come on; Müller-Thurgau is Liebfraumilch!

Since Müller-Thurgau isn't poured on a regular basis at home I haven't given the genealogy much thought. Reading with ten years delay I'm therefore quite happy to see DNA fingerprinting determining a crossing between Riesling and Madeleine Royale (a table wine grape which ripens extremely early). Taught ya!

No, I'm not going to mock the creator, Hermann Müller. Au contraire dear reader, I want to thank him!

If you wan't to make good wine out of a grape that ripens early and probably are popular mainly thanks to that, large yields and adaptability, how do you proceed? Cultivating it 1,000 meters above sea level; could that be a good start?

At the wine route of South Tyrol, in Alto Adige, you will find the vineyards of Tiefenbrunner. Quite a big player on the scene, mainly focusing on white, they're still producing good quality wines filled with personality. The flagship wine, Feldmarschall, is a Müller-Thurgau! Flagship huh, how can he then call the other ones quality wines you perhaps wonder.

Grown in chalky soil at 1,000 meters above sea level I believe Tiefenbrunner has provided us with Müller-Thurgau's raison d'être because Feldmarschall rocks! Twice I've been impressed and a few weeks ago it was the 2008 with its floral notes, minerals in abundance and classy acidity showing Hermann Müller perhaps desverves some cred after all.

Not much color to the 2008 but the aromas are there; jasmine, green apples, wet rocks, green herbs and lime peel. Fine concentration on the nose. More tropical notes in the palate where some peaches show up. Cool minerality, jasmines and a high class acidity that adds considerable depth to the taste. Bonedry. Impressive length and pure but restrained fruit. Guess you need a weak spot for the floral styled wines to like this. Good thing I have that! Thanks Hermann.

(2008 Tiefenbrunner, Feldmarschall, Müller-Thurgau, Südtirol, 91-92 p)

PS. You can find the 2008 here.

PS.2. Yes, I know the art of crossing isn't that simple...

Words come easy...

2011-02-04T12:14:00.000+01:00

Loyal followers probably remember my Cahors Malbec incomprehension post last year. You most likely also remember me slightly apologizing when I was poured the single vineyard Malbec's of Catena; Adrianna and Nicasia. Aah, what great wines which called for a revision of my Malbec status.

Hard to believe but then came along an even better Malbec, also from Argentina; Achaval-Ferrer. The single vineyard wine of Finca Bella Vista version 2007 will get your full attention - as soon as it is in the glass that is. Because seriously, few will pay 60+ Euros for an Argentine Malbec when you can stick to safe and well-known brands. Acha...what?

Well, skip a bottle of an outrageously priced Bordeaux and treat yourself with a bottle of the Achaval wine. It will, most likely, be your best Malbec ever!

No need to write a whole tasting note essay on the 2007 Finca Bella Vista. I settle with summing it up the Homer Simpson way.

2007 Achaval-Ferrer, Finca Bella Vista, Perdriel, Mendoza, 94-95 p

TN: Gaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah!

Beat that tasting note profesional wine critics.

Want to buy a bottle? Der Wein Weber in Germany retails at EUR 61. A lot of money yes, but also a lot of wine!

Charles Smith; you rock!

2011-01-26T01:52:00.002+01:00

Ask 1,000 randomly chosen wine consumers to pick their preference Riesling based on what visually attracts them the most; a wine bottle with a classic label filled with text such as Graacher Domprobst Kabinett Feinherb, or a wine named Kung Fu Girl? I know; it wouldn't look nice for the German huh? If you're not one of those conscious wine drinkers that claim they never buy a bottle by its looks you will probably admit you end up with the Kung Fu wine in your bag. You see, this is how most of us work. A cool label rocks.

Now, you can't keep on selling an ass kicking kung fu girl if the girl doesn't deliver, something Mr. Smith is most aware about. A cool label does the job once or twice but then that's it. Have a glass of the 2009 Kung Fu Girl Riesling (87-88 p) and keep in mind Charles retails this at USD 12. - then it is quite easy to become impressed. Easy sipping but still filled with character and site expression. That's the essence of Charles Smith's entrance wines whether they are called Kung Fu Girl, Eve, Boom Boom or The Velvet Devil. You don't have to analyze and write a thesis on them, just enjoy the wines.

"Take a mug shot", Charles said.

Meeting a man you've only read about before is exciting. Add meeting an ex rockmanager to that and it gets even better. There's a lot of writing on Charles out there in cyberspace and lately there's been some of negative art. Judging a person on what you read makes you narrow-minded and this is not my thing. Therefore it was thrilling to end up having Charles across me at the tasting and dinner last week letting the man present himself. Besides, how cool isn't it with an American pronouncing 'For satan mand' in really good Danish!

We share a year me and Charles. 1999. That was the year I decided to start working in the wine business in Copenhagen. The very same year Charles decided to leave the city and the life as a rock manager, to instead become a winemaker in Washington. By the way; did I sell you some wine Charles? I know you knew the shop...

When I think about it I'm more and more impressed. Charles brought a magnum of the 2003 The Hustler Syrah (93-94 p) to the tasting last week. How on earth did you manage to make such a fine wine when you'd only been in the business for a few years? Is that simply the fingerspitzgefühl the Germans talk about?

I died in my teens. Over the years I've listened to it hundreds of times. If there's just one Psyched up Janis song you should listen to, this is the one. How cool isn't it then to sit next to the band's ex manager knowing he even shared apartment with lead singer Sune Wagner. Bar crawling with Charles an evening would be great - suspect there's a story or two you can tell? For satan mand!

No dirty thoughts now but Hustler is great. The 2003 Syrah that is. 32 months on barrel, single vineyard Syrah; anyone up for some LaLaLa vibes? Named after Jackie Gleason aka “Minnesota Fats”, a big man light on his feet. About the wine Charles says: The wine will take you to the moon and back with its deep, deep flavor and super suave texture. So grab a bottle, pull the cork, fill your glass and “Away We Go”!

But even better and a wine that really, really caught my attention, was the 2006 K Syrah Wells (95-96 p). Writing about a wine you, dear reader, most likely never will get the chance to taste can be a bit provocative. I know that. Not that the Wells is outrageously prized, the reason is rather spelled 1/2 acre. Two barrels are produced from the rocky soil at 1500 feet up the south fork of Walla Walla River - and Charles poured a magnum of this. I think that is generous. Don't you?

It's floral, perfumed in a restrained way making me write Cote Rotie. Cool, pure seductive fruit, clove and sausages. Would love serving this next to Guigal's Chateau d'Ampuis. All I have to do is dream...

I need you so that I could die

I love you so and that is why

Whenever I want you, all I have to do is dream

Dream, dream, dream, dream

Dream, dream

A great introduction to Charles Smith premium Syrah is the 2008 K Morrison Lane (91-92 p). Sourced from the oldest plantings of Syrah in Walla Walla this wine is approachable already in its youth. Quite Rhone-like in style. Something like Chateauneuf-du-Pape meets Saint-Joseph meets Charles Smith. Tar, licorice and bay leafs. Fine structure and good grip. Served with a wild boar Osso Buco which elevated the wine!

Blood sausage with Lardo. My favorite this evening!

Let's talk En Cerise. A vineyard on ancient dried riverbed in the floor of Walla Walla Valley. Biodynamically farmed and planted in 1997. From here Charles gets the fruit for his K Ovide. We're tasting the 2008 K Ovide En Cerise (93-94 p). It is absolutely gorgeous. A blend of 67 per cent Cab and the rest being Syrah. There's a Wells touch to it; lots of mineral feel and Rhone vibes although Cab dominates the blend. Massive, yet silky tannins and great delineation. Let this one lure you!

More Cab. The 2008 The Creator (93-94 p) has a similar blend percentage as En Cerise. What differs is the vineyard sites; Stoneridge, Cailloux and Morrison Lane. This is a step up on the taste pedestal. At least that is what my palate tells me. More of everything compared with En Cerise and here the Cabernet Sauvignon doesn't allow the Syrah to play along just as much. Still elegant and impeccably balanced. Which I prefer of the two? Both!

The trilogy of Heart, Old Bones and Royal City are, well what can I say, majestic, huge, overwhelming, packed with flavors and just, just truly divine! I realize these wines will make traditionalists faint and I can actually visualize the "when in doubt, run in circles and shout"-critics reaction when tasting the 2007 Royal City. I don't care. I like it and for me that is what it's all about. All three of them has the stuffing to develop secondary aromas and will only benefit from many years in a horisontal position. That's easy to forget when tasting a young, vivid and concentrated wine just screaming for some bottle age.

These wines all origin from the Stoneridge Vineyard which is located northeast of the Wahluke Slope AVA, across the Saddle Mountains, near Royal City. Rocky soil, hence the name Stoneridge. A windy site, it naturally controls vigor and reduces yields, only 1.7 tons per acre. The fruit is thick skinned and produces nearly black juice and robust yet supple tannins, adding to the aging potential of the wine.Charles gets the Syrah for Heart from the southern section of the vineyard.

The 2007 Heart Syrah (95-96 p) is a blend of fruit primarily from the southern section of the vineyard. Not receiving as generous oak treatment as the Old Bones or the Royal City which I notice when tasting them side by side. Heart is pumped with dark berries, Christmas spices, humus, sausages and has a floral touch. Probably the most elegant of the three. On the palate it, to use Charles vocabulary when describing his wines, kicks ass. It's youthful and still a bit untamed but all the components are there. What talks directly to me is the pure seductive fruit. If I had any heart I would risk drinking them all just to get the kick out of the totally delicious fruit.

Both the 2007 Old Bones (96-97 p) and the 2007 Royal City (96-97 p) gets a dose of oak to say the least. Being a bit of an oak junkie I don't mind. Both wines has the stuffing to handle the toasted notes.

Foot chrushed by Charles. For a friend of Portuguese wines this is poetry to hear. Without going into detail on these wines which has a production on 167 respective 100 cases, I settle with the fact I'm totally in love with the super premium wines of Charles Smith. Hard to get yes, sadly, but if one really wants to taste it is not impossible. Besides, these retailed at USD 120-140 from K Vintners which add some perspective. Not cheap but for the experience it gives you?

A week after the tasting many of the wines are still on my mind. Charles too. And the labels, And the food paired with all the wines. Tasting wine for evaluation might be nice but there's no dout I prefer evenings like this. When wine is all about being fun!

Charles; you rock!

P.S. Want to listen to some more from Psyched up Janis? Check out this cover then. Kvinde min; perhaps Danish Gasolin's best one in a new version!

P.S.2. Labels are designed in co-op with Charles friend, Rikke Korff.

P.S.3. For the non Danish speaking section of my readers I wish to enlighten when it comes to the 'For satan mand' phrase. As you might have understood this belongs under the section of profanity. Too often used in the daily speech in Denmark it more or less means 'God damn it' and can be used both in a positive or less so context.

P.S.4. I was invited by the Swedish importer, Handpicked, to taste the wines of Charles Smith.

Anyone up for some competition?

2011-01-14T00:48:00.001+01:00

Competition. A term that describes the idea of individuals or companies striving for a greater share of a market to sell or buy goods and services.

Modern micro-economic theory argues that competition promotes companies to develop new products, services and technologies, which in the end results in a greater selection and better products for the target group, the consumers. Greater selection generates lower prices for the products especially when comparing to other markets where monopoly or oligopoly sets the premises (or rather the non-existing ones!).

Where competition exists one will also find the necessary laws setting the game rules. You see, there are players which are prepared to use methods that hardly can be considered compatible with competition on a free market. Cartels, monopolies or even state aid are examples of procedures where the involved might use methods that intend to exercise their market power and reduce other competitors chances within a certain field.

In the European Union the free flow of working people, goods, services and capital are of constitutional character and are regulated in the Rome Treaty. Competition is therefor of holy character. The purpose is simple. Competition are considered to increase economic efficiency in member states and removes barriers to trade between member states.

There's no doubt which EU institution has been the most successful during the decades the community/union has existed. Perhaps it depends upon whom you ask but speaking for myself, representing the end-user/consumer, I am thanking the EU-court for its independence and interpretation of the Competition Law part of the treaty. If it weren't for the court we wouldn't have essential decisions such as:

8/74 Dassonville (on the subject of the right to parallel imports from other EU-countries, also called Grey products)

120/78 Cassis de Dijon (on the subject of member states not hindering goods from other EU-countries, in order to protect the domestic market)

86/82 Hasselblad (on the subject of exclusive distribution agreements in order to prevent competition)

Over the decades there has been several more decisions in the field of competition and clearly there are many out there, prepared to take any necessary steps in order to prevent competition or in an illegal way, protect their brand.

So, what has this to do with wine? Sadly, for the consumer, EU Competition Law won't get all the bad guys. There's a grey-zone where the more subtle obstacles are to be found, and those putting this into action are more difficult to get hold of. Perhaps what I am about to tell you hardly comes as a surprise but still; it needs to be said again and again. Why? Because this is the European Union for god's sake; where the free flow of goods shouldn't be hindered - not if micro-economic theory on competition are to rely on.

The following occurrences are all told to me from affected resellers in the wine bussiness - in EU-countries.

Nothing new probably but I've heard from resellers that they are forced to offer certain producers wines at often ridiculously high end-user prices. If not, they have been told they won't be supplied in the future. One reseller was told that if they continued using their right to put own prices on a wine, it undermined the market for the product in question! Can anyone tell me what that means? Besides, since when where producers allowed to fix prices from resellers?

From another I hear about two importers buying the same product to the same country. One was given a considerably lower price. The reason for this was, according to the producer, bigger volumes. Still, the other importer with less ordered volumes, sells at a lower price and is because of that claimed to dump prices (by the other importer). When checking in to it, the smaller importer found out that the bigger one had one price in the catalogue but did sell at lower to customers who bought around two cases. Prices similar then to the other importer who was accused to dump. Phone call from the wine producer to the small reseller: "Adjust prices or we will discontinue supplying you”. When notifying them that the other reseller sold at same price (but just didn't state it) they said they would demand them as well to raise prices.

One wineshop told me that they were forced not to sell below the producer's cellar door price (which in this case was a lot, I mean a lot, higher than the purchase price of the reseller). The reseller could do a decent margin out of the price they asked. Still, if continuing the future supply was in danger. Why? The answer given was that the producer needed to protect other resellers. Isn't it touching? Producers taking a social and caring responsibility on their shoulders. Hoorah!

One world famous brand from Italy refused to sell to a reseller in another EU-country given the reason they had an exclusive distributor there already. Upon contacting the distributor the quote given would have left the reseller with a gross margin of less then ten per cent if trying to stick with the two lowest competitors on the net.

Another recognized brand said the same (exclusive distributor) and when the reseller checked with the distributor in the specific country they were told that they needed to buy four cases of an inferior wine as well for each case they wanted of the prestige wine. Perhaps something of a grey-zone but still; benefiting from the demand and requiring purchase of inferior wine is not fair trade.

Next one; a reseller was told “we do not have any left” when contacting the world famous producer. Fine, they thought. Nothing to do about that. Next vintage - new call. Same answer which the reseller questioned. The response was: “You see, it is reserved for our regular customers who buy more than this wine from us. We can supply you but for every case you have to buy x cases of x or y or... " Then came the next reason: "We know you and we do not care for the disruptions you cause to the price structure in the market.” This ended up in the fact that the reseller bought on the Grey Market using parallel import - not that the wine was of that great personal interest for the reseller, but knowing it attracted buyers, they needed to be able to offer it.

Conclusion: It's a tough market out there. That's the core and whole essence of competition. Sadly this leads to the search for scrupulous methods amongst too many trying to protect their current position, brand and controling their resellers. Big or small companies doesn't matter; laws are seen as flexible but when they're stepped at themselves, they shout loud and demand protection.

The issues for the reseller wanting to offer certain brands since it attracts buyers, are the fact that they won't get any allocations if they're not doing as told. And who dares to speak up knowing it will affect future business and realizing it eventually might even put them out of business? As always; the loosing party is the end-user; the consumer who ultimately pays the price.

How are you going to solve this Joaquín Almunia, responsible EU commissioner for competition?

Here comes the sun.

2011-01-10T01:02:00.001+01:00

Little darling, it's been a long cold lonely winter
Little darling, it feels like years since it's been here
Here comes the sun, here comes the sun
and I say it's all right

Its been a while. The sun is not the most frequent guest at this latitude and the sporadic visits are easy to count. I guess it demands a certain willpower to accept this. If you're not native and have moved here from a more southern parallel, I guess the fact not seeing the sun for days must be something of a shock. Scandinavians have learned to live with it. We know our spring and summer are truly beautiful and worth waiting for. Short and intense yes, but probably the best in the world!

To keep away the winter blues some seek comfort in special light therapy lamps. Some goes on longer holidays to the south and some of us finds the light in a truly magnificent Syrah. This winter, Syrah has more than once blessed my day. La Landonne, La Mouline, La Turque and d'Ampuis all gave me those moments that will last until senility says otherwise.

As good as it gets?

Then there's Le Sol. I know, I also thought it meant 'the sun' lacking any far-reaching skills in French. Soil. It means soil. Le Terroir.

I've had the fortune to taste 2007 Le Sol twice this winter. First at the Craggy Range booth when the kiwis invaded Stockholm for a tasting some months ago. I liked it. A lot. Out of all wines tasted that afternoon I went home with a new found knowledge; there's a LaLaLa in New Zealand as well and I just got to have some of these to taste at home!

Since I never get wine gifts for birthday or Christmas I knew there was only one way to compensate for this fear amongst givers; I had to buy my own Christmas present. So, having finally beaten all the mandatory Christmas sickness amongst the kids, the evening came - time for Le Sol.

When thinking of it I almost feel sorry for Le Sol. Popped the day before New Year's eve it didn't get the chance to make it to my yearly, but already posted, top list. Sure, it was my choice on the tasting but great wines are preferably tasted in a relaxed environment. I will solve this welfare problem by popping my last during 2011...

Le Sol deserves your attention. The Syrah from the Gimblett Gravels Vineyard on the ancient bed of the Ngaruroro river has its very own and unique style. The stony soil (and of course a bunch of other factors as well) has given name to a specific character that is found here; Gimblett dust meaning red wines with richness, excellent ripeness and elegance with a dusty tannin finish.

Hello bottled sunshine! Given several hours in the decanter. Already when popped and tasted I know I'm gonna like this. Man, the coming hours are going to be like Christmas from a child's point of view. When's that f-ing Santa coming? I can't wait! But hey, I'm an adult and realize that patience will reward my taste buds....

2007 Craggy Range Le Sol, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke's Bay (94-95 p)

Pure class on the nose. Dark berries, game, pepper and gently used oak (dark chocolate). Licorice and floral notes adds depth together with a dusty summer road/wet rocks feel to it. No doubt this is Syrah - the components are there and although Gimblett dusty, it is easy to start making northern Rhone parallels. Young yes, but so promising.

Great wines in great vintages masks the tannin structure in a way so you almost tend to forget they actually are there. The tannins that is. Le Sol in 2007 is such a wine. I love the combination of lavish amounts of sweet ripe fruit, a good shoot of the finest tannins, minerals; in this case wet rocks - and a bone dry taste. It's all about a constant journey for the nose and taste buds.

Intense and yet elegant with a creamy dark berries taste, bay leafs, licorice and a floral note that closes in on lavender. The oak is more evident in the taste but considering this is a long keeper it will integrate. That I won't doubt. Long, long and pure finish. Would have been a true joy to sit on a case of this and follow the coming decade - or two. I would probably have had mine within the first decade because I know how my brain works - why wait hysterically long for something that is already beautiful? But it will last. It will....

The snow is at least white...

Le Sol - my kind of light therapy when the spring and summer seems an eternity away!

Little darling, I feel that ice is slowly melting
Little darling, it seems like years since it's been clear
Here comes the sun, here comes the sun,
and I say it's all right
It's all right

N.B. Yup, it's The Beatles...

N.B.2. Although I have tasted quite a lot of NZ wines by now I still consider myself at a learning stage. This is both thrilling and at the same time a bit sad. I need to learn and understand but that means I can't buy a case of for example the 2007 Le Sol without reducing my continuing curiosity. I guess that's the downside of not being a millionaire...

N.B.3. Served with a big bird, an unbelievably unhealthy but worth-dying-for sauce, red cabbage, Brussels sprouts and almond potatoes. You guessed it; Danish Christmas eating.

N.B.4. The NZ wine guru himself seems to be most pleased as well with the 2007.

The art of creating new references: When Saint Emilion moved to Hawke's Bay!

2011-01-05T01:20:00.000+01:00

-Vintage?

My generous friend stands there with a smile, knowing I'm confused. We've done this before at countless occasions; exposed each other for blind-bottles.

-I'm thinking 1995 or 1998. It's maturing but has that gorgeous sweet fruit scent you find in great years.

Now I know he's pleased. He got me right where he wanted; in the land of confusion.

-It has that almost late harvest feeling over it. I love it! The plums, the licorice, humus and some soy sauce and mushrooms luring in the background. It just screams out Merlot. And the structure and acidity, perfectly integrated oak....thanks for pouring! Can I have some refill?

I haven't said it yet but Michel Rolland seems to pop up in my head more than once. Could it be his Le Bon Pasteur? But a Pomerol? Isn't it more of a...of a Saint Emilion? Should I say it?

- I think it's a 1995.

-It's 1998.

Ok then. This should support my Saint Emilion track. Then perhaps....it do remind me a bit of the quite modern and often late harvested Troplong-Mondot. Can it be? My friend knows we visited the Chateau in '08 and we have split Troplong's before.

-But there is an intensity, I say, an intensity I can't place really.

My friend saves me and shows the bottle:

1998 Brookfields Gold Label Cabernet/Merlot

Soon to be 13 years old BDX-blend from Hawke's Bay. I'll say. Now I know kiwis age gracefully as well (just kidding; I knew that already)! This darling has several years left although it is, for my taste, a perfect drink now. Perhaps the vintage of the 90's but I still can't wait to taste more recent vintages with age and see if the quality continues up. If so, then this will become world class.

1998 Brookfields Gold Label (Cabernet Sauvignon 85%, Merlot 10%, Cabernet Franc 5%), Hawke's Bay, 93-94 points

N.B. Decanted two hours ahead. No signs of cracking up during the extra hour in the glasses.

N.B.2. Brookfields is a small boutique-like winery but please all importers reading my blog: call, mail, tweet Peter Robertson and try to get this to your portfolio. Bordeaux-lovers will thank you.

N.B.3. Roasted lamb in the oven....what else!

Weekly reflections of a wine lover - #61

2011-01-04T15:21:00.000+01:00

So, tell me. Did you come up with any New Year's resolutions? I had one; I promised to start the new year's first day by organizing my part of the wardrobe. I failed miserably. Probably it was most deliberate since I'm not much into the resolutions stuff. Better then to fail directly.

However, I do have expectations for 2011, both personal and vinous ones. Looking back at everything I have been writing over the years it makes me a bit sad this is all in the past and forgotten about. I know, it's the Achilles heel of blogging. A wear and tear-way of reading. What's not newly published isn't interesting to read it seems. That I think, is a key factor for me to avoid if I am to keep up the ambition, motivation and not to forget the most important thing I wish to spread, passion. I need a slightly other form for my writing. I need an URL. A www. This is my promise to myself in 2011 to keep up the motivation!

Now the tricky part begins; finding a suitable name. Most are taken and although a majority of the domain names are registered in a cyber-squatting attempt to make money, meaning the names are not used but only parked while awaiting an offer, I won't fall for that. You can keep your names and pay the annual fee for eternity.

So 2011; bring me lots of new discoveries, new connections and new websites! Thanks for reading my irregular weekly mumbo jumbo newsletter no. #61.

Resolutions. I said I already failed miserably with the one and only I gave. Perhaps it is more appropriate to talk about setting up visions. In that case I have countless of goals for 2011. My primary goal is to continue broadening my perspectives, meaning concentrating my curiosity to wines and the people behind them outside the classic wine regions. Especially one country needs to be checked out even more intensely than last year. New Zealand, my new darling. The same goes for Australian wines which definitely has caught my attention.

This doesn't mean I will forget about wines from Europe and stop drinking them. Not at all. I will just concentrate spending my sugar on kiwis. That's it.

Talking about New Zealand listen to this. I recently bought some 2008 Elephant Hill Reserve Syrah (90-91 p) from the currently most thrilling Syrah region in the country; Hawke's Bay. It was good. I mean really good. Lots of classic Syrah character and a delicious taste with an acidity reminding me of northern Rhone. Obviously there's one per cent of Viognier in it as well. Not that I can brag I thought so but seriously speaking, having followed the wine through a whole evening and also tasted a glass the next day, makes me confident in saying this is quality stuff. Obviously my kiwi guru thought so as well.

What annoys me is this; I accidentally noted a Swedish wine reviewer tasting the wine and crying out a 'don't drink this'-warning in his newsletter since the wine had a burnt scent in the taste. Yicks it ended.

No matter how many readers you have, this I can't stand. Everybody have their right to express their thoughts but when you don't like a wine, please bear in mind that what you write will be read by others. Everybody that writes and have readers will most likely influence some and with wine-reviewing (as much else) comes a certain responsibility. Why don't I like the wine? Is it my personal taste only or is this wine either crappy or perhaps defect? Under which circumstances did I try it? Can the fact I tasted 70 wines that day affect my taste buds? Shall I retry it before publishing my judgement?

Personal taste is one thing and that I respect. Too hasty and judging comments are just unprofessional and should be reviewed more than once before publishing. Big or not; if a reviewer doesn't have this as a primary understanding one will never gain respect.

Did you read my summarizing of 2010? The letter J? The cork industry seems to subscribe to the least wanted award every year and although we hear that a lot of effort is put in to reducing cork defects it's still there. I don't know if the cork people read my blog but I'm starting to suspect they broke in to my home and injected 2,4,6-trichloroanisole in the bottles I'd chosen for new year's eve!

We were having four wines during the evening and half of them were tainted. Badly. Both were from Bordeaux and quite exclusive if I may say so myself. At least when my palate decides.

The evening before I had prepared the red wine sauce for the main course. It was based on two bottles of red wine, both corked and I wanted to give them a chance to at least show some dignity. The sauce was great. But way too expensive. Both wines were of the kind that didn't need a cork since they're appreciated for their fruit and vivid character. But I guess it's just asking for too much. I mean, a Portuguese using screw-cap? Or as closure in a French quality wine?

That reminds me, a Portuguese that goes screw-cap needs some praising!

Right now screw-caps rock in my world.

Miguel Champalimaud's Quinta do Côtto must be one of few Portuguese who dares having an alternative closure that doesn't emanate from Alentejo. Miguel, I salute you for your guts!

Hmmm...thinking of starting a new blog, just concentrating on wines with alternative closures.

Something completely different than wine. Coffee. I got some Kopi Luwak beans for Christmas. Kopi Luwak is coffee made from the beans of coffee berries which have been eaten by the Asian Palm Civet. A civet eats the berries for their fleshy pulp. In its stomach, proteolytic enzymes seep into the beans, making shorter peptides and more free amino acids. Passing through a civet's intestines the beans are then defecated, keeping their shape. After gathering, thorough washing, sun drying, light roasting and brewing, these beans yield an aromatic coffee with much less bitterness, widely noted as the most expensive coffee in the world. Wikipedia explanation.

It sounds gross and one thing's for certain. I surely know I don't want to be a 'civet coffee berries excrement-picker' when I grow up! But you know what; this is good shit! No, actually it is fantastic coffee. Now I just wish I hadn't been introduced to Kopi Luwak. Knowing how good coffee can taste puts me in an awkward situation. I'm not supposed to put just as much on some shitty coffee beans every month as I do on wine!

Something completely different than wine #2. Beer. No attempt here to sound like a beer pro. I know what I like but it pretty much stops there. But I need to tell you about my kind of malt beverage and the beer of the year in 2010.

Brewmaster Thomas Kipka and co-owner Jens Boysen has a most thrilling project on the German island of Sylt.Their Sylter Hopfen cost just as much as a budget Champagne but is such a superior experience. I guess the real beer aficionados doesn't go for this kind of beer as much as I do but it is easy to fall for the elegance and the lovely taste which is sweet and at the same time acidic. Alcohol like a Belgian ale, acidity like a Madeira and brettanomyces like a Beaucastel. Seriously good stuff and worth the 20 Euro price tag!

Back to Beaujolais and their great 2009 vintage. If you're reading my irregular week letter you know I'm checking out the 2009 from this too forgotten about region. Time has come to praise Chateau Thivin in Côte de Brouilly.

Claude and Evelyne Geoffay's single vineyard Le Clos Bertrand (91-92 p) is one for the cellar! Delicious now as great wines tend to be in great vintages, but patience will be awarded. This one has a mineral driven taste that fascinates, acidity to complement and a tannin structure I seldomly find in Beaujolais. Forget about Burgundies at £15 a bottle. Buy some Thivin instead and fall in love with the true potential of Gamay!

Starting the new year with lumbago. Could have been better....

I really tried to find a yick-like burnt scent in that Elephant Hill. I really did.

By the way. Don't expect to bump into the enormous creatures if you visit Elephant Hill. Saving you the disappointment already here and now!

2010 - An odyssey from A to Z

2010-12-29T03:05:00.001+01:00

It's time to sum up 2010. As always I prefer staying positive but one can't constantly smile - especially not after having popped yet a cork tainted bottle.

If you have followed me this year as well, or is a newcomer to Mise en bouteille, doesn't matter. I'm happy to have you here during my first year as an English-written wineblog. At first I wondered a bit what the heck I was doing; giving up on a nice amount of Swedish followers just to jump out there amongst hundreds (thousands?) of English written wineblogs. But then I kept on reminding myself; wine is not limited to where you live; it is a beverage of global perspectives with aficionados all over the world - and then it was an easy decision to stick to.

Initially visitors obviously dropped me because the loss in readership was substantial. Now, almost a year later, I can easily say it was the correct decision to take. The readers are back and by far even more. I've gotten to know a bunch of fantastic wine personalities thanks to an international language - and I have new friends all over the world.

2010 is without doubt my best blogging year so far. Why? Easy. I've finally taken that last step realizing there's so much more the wine world offers than classic European regions. Prejudices rule and easily takes over one's attitude. But in 2010 I've put just as much effort in finding those hidden treasures out there, especially non-Europeans, and boy, did that give me a wake up-call!

Summing up my vinous 2010 is not easy; my classic approach has seen a drastic turn and a majority of my UK-in bond cellar which was seriously Bordeaux dominated, has dramatically switched character. And yes, there's one country above all that especially has found a way directly to my heart.

Again, thanks to all of you following my writings. Next year will see some blog changes which currently do take a lot of my time. Hopefully something good comes out of it...

Ahl-Yahn-Eh-Ko of the year

I have a weak spot. No, I have many when I think of it. Anyway, one of them is called Aglianico. I was introduced to this too little spoken of-grape already 15+ years ago, and already then it was love at first sight. D'Angelo took care of that. But along the road I forgot about the southern Italian pride and only occasional encounters reminded me of the grape's existence. This summer though I was again hit by the Aglianico-love and now I've promised myself I won't let go!

Selvanova and Antonio Buono reminded me of just how d-mn good Aglianico can be. Some call it the Nebbiolo of the south. I call it.....Aglianico.

Bastard of the year

Me, or Bastardo? I know; I'm a hopeless wine romantic. Chasing grapes no-one ever heard of isn't a mission of mine but can easily be the impression one gets from reading my postings. However, if you're a Madeira nut you will sooner or later get in contact with rarities such as Bastardo or Terrantez. Therefore it was a moment of both nostalgia and sadness when I finally this year got the chance to see some of the last Bastardo grapes on Madeira.

It is easier to understand Bastardo's loss of popularity compared with the outstanding Terrantez, but still; it is sad we won't see any vintage Bastardo like the 1927 anymore. Not during my lifetime at least.

Christ(os) of the year

"Christos clearly demonstrates in his wines that he's more than a pharmacist. He's an artist as well! I guess some just has that special 'je ne sais quoi' feeling when it comes to producing great wines - with or without prior training."

Kokkalis aspires on the next award as well and I am just so happy I got the chance to taste his truly great Trilogia which demonstrates that Greek wine should be taken seriously.

Honestly, I know I should keep my 2008's for some years but I simply can't wait to have yet a glass of the best Greek red I've ever tasted! Christos rocks!

Discovery of the year

You can't taste it all but I am still surprised how I could miss out on Nerello Mascalese. Until this year! Six years ago when we went to Sicily it was all about Nero d'Avola. Nerello what?

Thanks to the Quota 600 from Alberto Graci I'm now catching up. Nerello Mascalese from high-altitude sites are the quintessence of elegance and ethereal wines. I guess the acidity freak in me awakens when Mascalese is poured. Still, all of us won't fall in love with the style but this is my blog and I'm crazy about Etna. Next time on Sicily I promise; I will have my share of Nerello-wines. Hear, hear!

Exit of the year

Sayonara Bordeaux! Mise en bouteille has left the building.

Me and my wallet have had it with overpriced wines, which at the levels I can afford, most of the times are not nearby in quality with many other wines around the world. I've now sold a majority of my Bordeuax cellar in UK and have realized that although I love a great BDX I've been hiding behind them as well. Now when I'm released I have discovered a myriad of wines I probably like more.

So, thank you Bordeaux. You've opened my eyes! Oh, and by the way. Thanks to all who bought my cases at BBR's commission sale.

Feelgood of the year

It's been a great day. We've been at Pico Arieiro, checked out the little villages on the north easthern coast, seen some amazing vineyards and have just finished our dinner on the terrace.

The view is amazing with Funchal and Cabo Girão in the horizon. Sunset. Still 17-18 C. Barely no wind. A glass of H.M. Borges 10 years old Malmsey. One of those moments in life that will last until senility says otherwise!

Gillette of the year

"This is one of those wines I really need once in a while in order not to question my wine passion. It stirs up emotions, speaks directly to the heart and is simply put; a dream to taste!"

With razor-sharp delineation the 2006 La Mouline carves perfection and demonstrates when Cote-Rotie is this good, it doesn't matter if your name is
Petrus or Lafite. You won't stand a chance. Not if my palate decides! When I get rich I will buy cases of this. Just so you know....

Holy shit of the year

Luís d'Oliveira is a true gentleman. Always have time for me and my questions. But there's one moment I'll treasure more than any else and that is when Luís made me feel like Jancis Robinson for one afternoon! Vintage after vintage he poured me, and just when I thought it was impossible to fill my head with more impressions he geared up.

A 135 years ride in four hours. Eat that Einstein! O divino aqui tão perto - as close to heaven as you get!

"I'm 89 points on that"-of the year

Sorry wine. You missed Suckling's site by 1 point. I guess no-one has been more attacked and yelled at this year than James Suckling. In some degree it is self-induced, perhaps more, but clearly much of this could have been avoided if the purpose would have been more clear from the beginning. Maybe the circus would have stayed a storm in a teacup if James had said from the start that he was after the label-drinkers and their money. Or perhaps it wasn't more than just a storm in a teacup all the time?

Still, it leaves me with a bitter aftertaste and feeling stupid for using points.

Judas of the year

Basically I can copy last year's disappointment since the cork industry seems like having an urge to subscribe to the least wanted award on my A-Z list. One bottle after the other is cork tainted. Just the other day a 2009 Morgon. Why did that need a cork by the way? Cork as closure must be questioned more - at least since most wines don't need the cork considering they're consumed within their first years of life.

But perhaps my aversion towards cork as closure is just as much an irritation against the winetrade not compensating a tainted bottle cellared the time a producer says it should. Hide behind consumer laws at first, then claim it has been stored too long so compensation is not possible. As the end-user I'm the one paying for the shit ultimately.

Kung Fu-kick of the year

Malbec kicks ass! At least mine. Some Argentinian Malbec's obviously heard my jeremiad on Cahors and came to give me a lesson. Single vineyard sites such as the Adrianna, Argentino, Nicasia and Finca Bella Vista; I thank you for making me believe in Malbec again. What wines - I mean; this is close to world class! No, this is world class!

By the way, thanks to Elena Catena I'm now a Chimichurri-junkie!

Label of the year

There's something about Polena from a Sicilian favorite of mine, Donnafugata. I love the colours, the simple but yet elegant drawing. Feels perfect for the content; equal parts of Cataratto and Viognier.

Labels and shape do affect us more than we would like to believe. I know what attracts me. I think. Do you know what you fall for?

Mate of the year

"This is exactly what I want in a great Chardonnay. Lots of presence, careful oak treatment and an aroma just screaming out its place of origin. As the acidity freak I am, things just get better on the palate. Simply put, this is exactly what Chardonnay is all about."

Nope, it's not a Chablis Grand Cru. It is Kumeu River's 2007 Mate's Vineyard from Auckland. We just need to learn how Chardonnay tastes like outside of France and that the too often used terroir-word (at least when you wan't to feel superior) is not something that the French own. Served blind you will fool many europhiles with this one!

Naturalment of the year

Of course. Why didn't I think of that before? The soil in the southern of England is similar to the one in Champagne and also the climate shows similarities.

But British fizz; can it really be something? Heck yes! Sussex-based RidgeView Estate clearly demonstrated that a couple of times 2010 when we had the impressive 2006 Grosvenor Blanc de Blancs. I suppose the psychological barrier in this case is: 1. British fizz. 2. £20-25. 3. Come on, British fizz!

Onkaparinga of the year

2007 Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Is that a good year? Can't find any information on that....

Being a wine nut or not; you can't have missed out on the hysteria surrounding the Pope wines anno 2007. That is why I'm instead pushing for the 2006 Onkaparinga from Clarendon Hills. C9dP don't need my support but if you love Grenache and yet haven't discovered the Aussie version; shame on you. But hey, you're forgiven.

Just get going and pick up an Onkaparinga - "I think this is the start of a beautiful friendship".

Pinosity of the year

"Quite dark for a Pinot. Wow! Already when closing in on the bouquet you sense what's gonna hit the nose! Dark cherries, wild strawberries, leather,
humus/compost, spices and rose petals. Perfectly integrated oak. Still young but such awesome concentration on the nose and still managing to stay elegant....I'm already all yours dear Omihi."

I could have stayed conservative and picked a Burgundy - or perhaps extended my caution to Germany. But let's face reality. New Zealand is not a newcomer anymore and they've shown us more than once they know how to treat Pinot. Sadly, Daniel Schuster went into receivership last year but that doesn't stop me from saluting his 2006 Omihi. Nope, Kiwi's aren't here to watch and learn anymore; they're now competing with the best around the world.

Queen of the year

Yes, Douro knows how to handle Touriga Nacional but for me the greatest expressions and interpretations emanates from Dão where the grape reigns. The combination of high altitude sites resulting in classy natural acidity, protected surroundings, the soil mainly consisting of granite and sand and the backing up of Tinta Roriz, Jaen and Alfrocheiro Preto, results in wines right up my alley.

Dão might be one of the most underrated high quality wine-regions in the world. If the ambassadors of great Dão shall be able to continue their work more consumers needs to discover the wines. Why don't start with one of Portugal's most promising winemakers, Filipa Pato, and her amazing 2008 Lokal Silex. Filipa and Touriga Nacional, the two queens of Dão?

Region of the year

When you have indigenous grapes and stick to them despite knowing how hard it is to convince the consumer, you deserve a medal. Especially when not falling for the trick to plant international grapes and just become yet a Chardonnay/Cabernet/Syrah-producing region in the world.

The quality boom in Portugal's biggest region, Vinho Verde, is amazing. Few know about the grapes beyond Alvarinho and yet the producers continue with Loureiro, Trajadura and Vinhão to mention just a few. Wines stuffed with personality and quality are the future. Vinho Verde has all the potential to continue on their growing recognition and make 2011 their year. Not convinced yet? Have some Quinta de Gomariz and you will be!

Sister of the year

Man, can Chris Camarda handle that grape juice or not! The premium wine 2006 Sorella went straight to my heart and started my Bordeaux exit. A case of '05 Duhart-Milon Rothschild gave me two cases of the Andrew Will-wine. Buy of the year!

Sorella proofs that Washington produces world class wines and that it's worthy of our attention.

Not only is Andrew Will's premium bottling a great wine, it is also a homage to two women in his life; his late sister and his late wife. Wine is many times more than just wine; they also tell us personal stories. Perhaps knowing the reason behind some wines makes us drink them with even more respect?

Terrantez of the year

My blogs are not about bragging. Readers in search for articles namedropping great wines will be disappointed if they find their way to me. Yes, I've had divine centennial Terrantez this year but come on; it's much more fun to share experiences that actually are possible for most us to find.

Henriques and Henriques deserves a medal for doing their part to preserve Madeira's greatest grape. The newly released 20 Years Old Terrantez shows just how much personality the grape offers. It's ethereal, it's mystical, it's Terrantez!

Unglaublich of the year

Hi! Do you wan't to buy my Blaufränkisch? It's only 50 euros!

Toni Hartl is either a genius or crazy. At least that was my thought before tasting his premium wine, Eisner. When I learnt he put his Blaufränkisch Eisner in French oak for 40 months, I seriously started believing he was crazy.

Tasting wines like the 2006 Eisner makes you humble. It just shows the diversity out there and that great wine can emanate from many grapes. Choose Austria. Choose Neusiedlersee. Choose Toni Hartl. Choose Eisner. Choose Blaufränkisch!

Verse of the year

"Sometimes it takes longer than a lifetime to do a lifetime's work… it's now up to my children."

Poetry I tell you. This is poetry! To reach such insight must be close to both Nirvana and ultimate frustration. Nevertheless, the words of the late Jim Barry describes exactly what wine many times are all about: You can't stress your way to success. Patience is needed and sometimes that means waiting for generations.

The 2006 The Armagh is a perfect example of that! A monumental wine that those with patience and fortune will speak about in 2025.

Winemaker of the year

How am I to choose a winemaker of the year? So many deserves attention for what they're doing. My choice had a personal approach. Rianie Strydom made me believe in South-African red wines again, showing that you don't have to talk about burnt scents in every single wine. It will be a true pleasure to follow her Pillars Shiraz or the BDX-blend, IV, the coming years. These are high-class wines competing with many more well-known labels.

Nice meeting you Rianie!

Xanadu of the year

Madeira is our idyll. Guess most of my readers got the message by now. Our five week stay on the island in February and March earlier this year were most welcome. Leaving the cold records in Sweden and switching that with green lawns pleased not only our eldest daughter.

Beautiful sceneries, great people, lovely food and, and, and...fantastic wines! Madeira is our Xanadu on earth. Miss you!

Youth of the year

Believe the hype! 2009 is a great vintage for many wine regions. Sadly most of the writings are centered around the ridiculously overpriced Bordeaux-wines that now are an exclusivity for the rich around the world.

But do you remember Beaujolais? No, I don't mean the cheating and court cases which seem to be how the region's been thought of the last years. I mean 2009. I mean Brouilly, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Morgon and Moulin a Vent. Never have there been a better chance to taste great Gamay at prices you didn't think were possible! Stock up with 2009 Beaujolais Cru and fall in love with the ultimate potential of Gamay!

Zealander of the year

In 2009 I wasn't much aware of Waipara's existence. Kathryn Ryan has made sure I now am!

Her Mountford Vineyard wines are right up my alley and I can't get enough of it. The mixture of the best from France with Kiwi know-how is a good combo. I will keep this short because otherwise Kathryn will be embarrassed of all the praising. Kathryn; Zealander of the year here on Mise en bouteille.

You can't have it all but hey; Merry Christmas!

2010-12-25T13:27:00.003+01:00

Christmas. Not only is it the highlight of the year amongst the kids, I am just as crazy about it. But when the little ones puts equal signs between Christmas and presents, I treasure the moments of family gatherings, a big bird in the oven, good wines and just a sense of, although perhaps instantaneous, a trouble-free world. Guess I'm getting old...

Sadly, our eldest daughter has come up with the bad idea that Christmas is all about becoming sick. Crossing fingers this year would see a break in the statistics, were spoilt on the 22nd. So, instead of her first Christmas eve fully aware of Santa's existence (you know what I mean), she was quite uninterested when he entered the living room. I guess most of us wouldn't give a d-mn about a white-bearded old man, despite a bag full of presents, if we had 40,5 C?

Being a worried soul means sitting up keeping an eye on the little one and knowing exactly when it's time for yet an antifebrile. Ergo, no Christmas port, no good glass of wine, no real time for enjoying the food. But, the single beer I had for Christmas was probably one of the best I've had for years. Man, did I enjoy my Mikkeller Santa's Little Helper 2010! Belgian-styled beer packed with Christmas spiciness. Thanks to the 9,1% it lasted an eternity!

Probably the best beer in the world!

So, in a moment when feeling good, the kids got a bunch of presents and for just a little while everything was just as we all hoped for Christmas!

Best of 2010 are on its way. Until then, enjoy the holidays and thank you so much for reading my blogs. It means a lot to me!

Tonight I was only 300 euros away from becoming a complete wine geek!

2010-12-15T01:13:00.003+01:00

Today I almost did it. Took that last step towards a complete wine geek.

Thankfully I was brutally chrushed by someome with a lot more money than me in the wallet (700 euros+). I was bidding on an auction lot with a set budget on 400 Euros. For a bottle of wine! A wine from 1839 and Madeira's only site of Grand Cru status - at least 150 years ago - would have been cool to own and drink. Just once.

I'm already somewhat of a wine nerd. I mean; if you start a wine-blog only handling Madeira that says it all, doesn't it? Not likely a blog aspiring on being the most read. But that final step, paying just as much for a bottle of wine as a trip to Madeira costs....that's when your complete! Since I didn't get the bottle I'm hence staying at my 99% level of nerdness. At least for a while.

In my world a winegeek is not necessarily one who spends hundreds of euros on a bottle. A winegeek is more likely a person who wants to spend hundreds of euros on a specific bottle but struggles with something called consciense, while trying to convince himself he just got to have that bottle. And that it is ok to stretch the wine budget - every month. I'm still to do that major purchase and spend a big pile of money on one single bottle, because deep inside I know the wine needs to be something really special. Like a 1839 Malvasia from Faja dos Padres.....

At least I don't need to build up an arsenal of arguments when telling my wife:

"Honey, do you remember when we visited Faja dos Padres? Guess what,
I just bought a bottle of Malvasia from the site. You know, the grape you like! It was only 700 euros!"

Congratulations to the lucky owner of the bottle. Hope you drink it! Perhaps you became a fullblooded geek tonight? Should you need a Madeira passionate to share it with you know where to find me...

P.S. My 3 1/2 years old daughter took the picture.

Kathryn, I presume?

2010-12-10T10:03:00.003+01:00

Want to place me a tricky question? Then ask what I prefer the most; the wine or meeting the people behind! Complex in that sense I'm a people's guy, loving to meet those who made it happen, the one's I admire. Still, it is wine that fascinates me but let's face it; without all the jigsaw puzzle-pieces you don't get the whole picture.

Kathryn and Kees

When it comes to Mountford Vineyard I am close. First I fell in love with the wines, next I met with the wonderful people behind. Now I just miss one essential thing; a visit! I want to feel the Waipara earth, chew some grapes together with winemaker C.P. Lin, chase away birds from those precious (come on, we're talking about New Zealand!) Pinot grapes, walk the Gradient, cook a meal for Kathryn and Kees and just enjoy the wines where they are supposed to taste at its best.

Guess it wasn't such a tricky question after all when I think about it.

If the people aren't there, it doesn't really matter how good the wines might be. Ain't it the same for you? Tasting wine with the producers brings that extra dimension to it and will affect our buying patterns for years. Tell me what you like the most, and keeps returning to, and I will say there's a likeliness a meeting with the producer is involved?

Meeting the enthusiastic owners Kathryn Ryan and Kees Zeestraten are essentially what made me look forward to last week. I've had long chats with Kathryn and after a while it feels I know her without having met. Entering the room, seeing her, it was just like meeting an old friend. Except for the continental kissing....I'm Swedish. We hug. It is the same at work when the Central Europeans visit, or I visit them; cheek kissing. I never remember which side to start. I almost kissed a colleague on the mouth once. I'm still embarrassed so let's hug instead!

Kathryn is a great representative for New Zealand and Waipara especially. Her enthusiasm affects everyone in the room and while she's tasting her wines she looks pleased and one can actually hear she is. Now, that's what I want!

I got the chance to talk with Kees as well. He's just as fascinating as Kathryn. Think about it; breaking up with your home country at 22 (The Netherlands) and move to the other side of the globe. That fascinates. And believe me, Kees has a lot to tell!

You know what; we had some wine as well.

Eight wines from the 2007, 2008 and 2009 vintages. I'm not going to bore you with long tasting notes - just give you some indications on how high the general quality is at Mountford.

2008 Mountford Estate Chardonnay - Give me this blind and I'll end up saying Chablis Grand Cru without hesitating! Lovely green apple acidity and lots of wet rocks feel. Where did those oak barrels go? Elegant taste with wonderful balancing acidity and plenty of cool fruit. (90-91 p)

2007 Mountford Estate Chardonnay - A total contrast to the '08. Most present toasted oak backed up by pears, peaches and wet rocks. Now, I'm quite fond of this style and admit it appeals more to me than the younger version. More of a Cote d'Or style. Really good stuff. (90-91 p)

2009 Mountford Riche Riesling - Mosel meets Waipara! More pure fruit than a German but the acidity kick and floral notes are there. Low alcohol and a wine to drink when I miss the summer too much. Bottled sunshine simply! My wife would love me even more if i came home with a case of this one. (88-89 p)

2008 Mountford Liaison Pinot Noir - Red berries, malt, wet earth, leather and compost . Funky nose. Lingonberry acidity, quite elegant and Pinot'ish taste with some stalky notes, dark cherries, mineral and bitter ending. Great drinking now. (88-89 p)

2007 Mountford Liaison Pinot Noir - Classic stuff. I love the '07 wines from Mountford and the Liaison is no exception. Leather, barnyard, strawberries, cherries and compost. Red berries, compost and leather in the taste. Sundrenched fruit feel with good acidity grip. Needs time. (90-91 p)

2008 Mountford Estate Pinot Noir - Floral, humus and cherries in a youthful style. The oak is barely there but adds depth to a cooler vintage. I like the '08 wines because of their early drinkability and they're not as demanding as the previous year. A step up from the Liaison wines. (91-92 p)

2007 Mountford Estate Pinot Noir - I love this wine! Big nose with cherries, leather, sagebrush, humus, flowers, bouillon and gentle oak. Intense but staying elegant. Quite a mouth feel for a Pinot but that acidity, that fruit, that elegance.....(93-94 p)

2008 Mountford The Gradient Pinot Noir - Just as good as the '07 Estate Pinot but more cool climate all over it. Burgundian elegance with strawberries, humus, compost and floral scents. Some dark chocolate from the oak, wild strawberries, cherries and lots of mineral feel. Pure fruit and an acidity to die for. A class act! (93-94 p)

Thank you Kathryn! Thank you Kees! See you in Waipara. I promise to cook if you pop a Hommage a' l'Alsace!

The tasting was arranged by the Swedish importer, Ward Wines.

PS. Have you read my previous article on Mountford? If not, here it is!

PS Again. You can follow Mountford on their blog and on Twitter.

PS Again and Again.Wondering about my points system? Me too! Actually, it is simple. Scores might take away the charm in wine if you only read those. Read the text! When you think you understand how my brain works you can try correlate with the grades. Since a grade looks so definitive I try to express a range instead where the bold marked is exactly where I stand when tasting the wine.

An Austrian LaLaLa and one in disguise?

2010-12-08T14:44:00.004+01:00

First of all; would you consider spending 50 Euro's on a Blaufränkisch? I know, blau what you think. Secondly; are you prepared to give it perhaps up to a decade in the cellar before starting to pop?

Blaufränkisch has all the potential to become a favorite amongst wine consumers. It has a racy structure with fine acidity and good tannin grip. Often a bit spicy in its bouquet and taste - and offering some resemblance with Syrah. Then, it doesn't have the body as a northern Rhone - more of a Burgundy. So, let's talk about a Syrah/Gamay/Pinot Noir resemblance and add a Northern Italian touch to it. Did you follow?

Once in a while you get to taste wines that amazes you - when the bottle is revealed. Toni Hartl's super premium Blaufränkisch is such a wine. Just the idea 'My star in the portfolio is going to be a Blaufränkisch' you got to admire. It wont exactly create a rush to the local retailer mildly put. Unless you actually have tasted the wine!

Eisner - a single vineyard Blaufränkisch in Leithaberg at Neusiedlersee has impressed me greatly twice now. The vines have reached a respectable age, averaging 36 years. Toni puts in some Cabernet Sauvignon in the wine (15%) - and as we know with the Tuscans using the same amount together with the Sangiovese, those per cent gives the wine a classy structure.

Blaufränkisch needs a climate which is not too cool. That is why it thrives at Neusiedlersee and the Eisner site is providing great micro-climate with lots of heat and a soil structure perfect for the grape. Shell limestone with underlying loam in a good slope.

So, Blaufränkisch accompanied by some Cabernet Sauvignon aren't perhaps that remarkable. But the guy puts the wine in 500 liter French oak barrels for 40 months (Yes, you read right; it's not a typo) which in my world would deliver an oak bomb model clumsy. It is not. The oak is barely there! When tasting the 2006 Eisner it is first on the third day opened the oak starts to reveal its presence. The wine has a sour cherry note bouquet with herbs, sagebrush, subtle oak, minerals scents in abundance and a sweet root note. A sense of cool climate wine in a hot place if you get that contradiction. I think I do...

The taste is of red berries, huge amounts of fruit, wet rocks, licorice, cherries and subtle oak. A fascinating slightly bitter aftertaste adds an extra dimension to the long aftertaste. Pure feeling all over it. There's no doubt this is a long keeper. At least ten years but for how long I hope there's someone out there able to tell me, because my experience with cellaring Blaufränkisch is more or less zero.

In order to understand the 2006 Eisner I try Toni Hartl's blend, the 2008 Inkognito, as well. This is a cuvée consisting of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt! The styles can't be more different. Where the Inkognito offers spicy, blackcurranty and sour cherry notes with generous oak feel to it (dark chocolate, vanilla and tobacco) in a more fullbodied style, the Eisner is all about elegance and a restrained wine. Inkognito has good ageing potential but I admit it is quite seductive already in its youth.

The 2006 Eisner is an eye opener for those who yet haven't realized Austria is producing red wines closing in at international top levels. Doing that using domestic grapes, well at least Blaufränkisch must be considered mainly an Austrian affair, is worthy of our attention. Clearly the wine varies a lot in style as well; my first approach towards the Eisner were the 2004 which was more spicy and 'green' in its character. Also more generous oak feel. Still, both vintages have resulted in great wines but in my case I'm slightly more fascinated by the 2006. This is such a unique experience for me and a wine style I seldomly bumps into.

(2008 Inkognito, Neusiedlersee, Toni Hartl, 90-91 points)

(2006 Eisner, Neusiedlersee, Toni Hartl, 93-94 points)

P.S. If you wish to try the wines from the biodynamically run Toni Hartl Estate, then try to stay open-minded and not initially compare the quality with other more well-known wine regions. I know some will react on a grade saying 93-94 points on a Blaufränkisch but for me this is exactly that great. However, I do have a feeling this is as high as you get with the grape. Though, I'd love to be wrong in that view....

Samples provided by Der Wein Weber.

It's Monday but I'll survive!

2010-12-06T00:49:00.001+01:00

Soon Monday morning and a week filled with work ahead. But hey, I will survive.

All I need to do is enter this blog's URL, read this post, look at the pictures and swish, I'm thrown back into the glasses of the Henriques and Henriques 1898 Verdelho Solera and the 1894 Founder's Reserve Solera which I had this weekend.

1898 Verdelho Solera

1894 Founder's Reserve Solera

Come on Monday. I'm prepared. I've had century old Madeira!

Greek wine and food

2010-12-02T11:41:00.001+01:00

It is time to sum up the Greek contribution from Elloinos with a post simply concentrating on what wine is all about; accompanying food. I am grateful for Markus Stolz generously allowing me to publish his writings on my blog. In this last article I am also in debt to Konstantinos Lazarakis MW (author of the article to follow) for allowing me to publish it.

I have inspired myself and purchased more Greek wines the last months than I probably have done the last five years. How about you?

Markus Stolz:

I am truly delighted and honored to have received the support of Konstantinos Lazarakis MW, who has agreed to publish a number of guest posts via Elloinos. Konstantinos is the first and only Greek Master of Wine and he runs the Wine and Spirit Professional Consultants Group (WSPC), which is also the accredited provider of the Wine & Spirit Education Trust courses in Greece. Konstantinos (follow him on twitter) has in my view single-handedly changed the way wine is perceived in the Greek society.

Together with Nikos Panidis, he has written a simply superb article about one of the most underestimated qualities of Greek wine, which is the ability to pair perfectly with food. Nikos is also a well-known personality in the Greek wine scene; he worked as sommelier at one of Athens’ top restaurants, Milos. He joined the WSPC in January 08 and works closely with Konstantinos on a number of projects.

I am really proud to publish this first introductory post that lays out why Greek wines pair naturally well with food. The tide is turning, and I have no doubt that we will hear a lot more about this remarkable characteristic over the next years. Enjoy!

Konstantinos Lazarakis MW:

Most Greeks consider discussing food and wine separately something almost unnatural. It divides two things meant to be together. A Greek will never consume wine without at least a nibble on the side, while having lunch or dinner will require the de facto presence of wine. To understand, however, the way wine and food interact on the average Greek table; one must take a closer look at the Greek mentality towards food.

Greeks have been poor people for the greater part of their modern history. Cooking, consequently, was never seen under the elitist light encountered in other countries, most notably France. In certain social layers of France, having access to and being able to afford prime ingredients was taken for granted, so the focus was on the artistry of turning them into food. When ability and style in cooking became such an important element, each creation had to be discussed. If a piece of meat was expertly prepared, then it had to be served to all people at the table at the same time. A subtle consequence of this practice was that every course had to be a showstopper; it had to be “taste overkill.” Matching wine with these courses inevitably followed.

Having enough money to buy what was needed for a proper dinner was frequently out of question in Greece. Thus, the cook had to invent cheap ways of adding variety to the dinner table – preparing small portions of many, different things, using the yesterday’s leftovers and turning them into something else. The low boredom threshold of Greeks helped as well. Over time, a certain philosophy developed. When people are invited to dinner in the average Greek household, they will never face just a starter, a salad and a main course. The hosts will prepare possibly a dozen various dishes, not served all together, but two or three at a time. There will be structure to the meal, but only a loose one –meat will come after seafood and before desserts, richer dishes after simpler or fresher ones– but nothing will come off the table until it is finished or until the table is full.

Under these circumstances, the traditional, quite static notion of matching food and wine goes out the window. Wine will have to provide refreshment or play counterpoint to the mouthfuls. There will be a more specific selection only if there is a broad theme on what is served. For example, at a fish lunch more white wine will be drunk and, on Easter Day, a tannic red wine will be matched with the traditional lamb on the spit. Not surprisingly, selecting wine acquired a much broader dimension, allowing the occasion, the time of the day or the climate to play a role. A summer lunch with friends by the seaside requires something refreshing, even if these friends suddenly decide to order some lamb chops. In Greece, there is one basic rule: if the wine is enjoyable, the food delicious and everyone has a hearty appetite for food, wine and good friends, then the match is perfect. Harmony is a holistic and vibrant concept, not confined to stagnant perceptions like “proteins must always be matched with tannins.”

The way Greeks approach matching wine and food, as well as the fact that drunkenness has been unacceptable for millennia, formulated a certain array of wine styles. Wines had to be refreshing, relatively low in alcohol, flavorful but never heavy; they had to be almost discreet on the palate. Greek wines should never be “a meal in themselves”, emphasising food friendliness above all other aspects.

For these precise reasons, Greek wines can be an ideal partner to any national cuisine and any cooking approach, enhancing not only the match, but the whole dining experience. That is what they were made for.

Reprinted with the kind allowance of Markus and Konstantinos.

Chimichurri - where have you been all my life? The art of food and wine pairing.

2010-12-01T14:10:00.001+01:00

Food, beautiful women, and wine. Not necessarily in that order though. What more can one ask for at a wine tasting?

A month ago I realized, while having the trilogy of Catena's Adrianna, Argentino and Nicasia in front of me, that whenever the desire for a great Malbec emerged, I should go for the Argentine version. Having tasted a bunch of Cahors Malbec the last year, paired it with food, it's time to realize that these aren't a preference of mine. Sorry France. Don't take it personally...

Tasting my way through Argentine Malbec shows some similarities with my French Malbec experiences, not disliking, but non-interest. So, perhaps it's all about the elevation then, considering my weak spot for Nicasia and especially Adrianna? The latter is the highest vineyard in Argentina - 1500 meters above sea level. The cool micro climate must be a major reason in my case - perhaps paired with the wine-making style?

Elena Catena

A week ago I was given the opportunity to follow up on the Catena wines when Elena Catena and one of the assistant winemakers, Mariela Molinari, visited Stockholm. I have attended many tastings over the years but few have had that cosy, and yet both educational and enlightening experience as the Catena evening. Why?

My home made Chimichurri!

First of all; I've been introduced to Chimichurri! Immediate love (could have something to do with the Rib-Eye Steak it assisted) resulting in me preparing my own one the day after.

Empanadas Salteñas

Secondly, instead of just sitting there listening, we were invited to prepare our own Empanadas Salteñas, guided by Elena and the chef for the evening, Stefan Eriksson.

Third, a five course meal with four of the courses accompanied by Catena wines, reminding us yet again the whole purpose of wine actually; to guide food. Argentinian wines are often racked on, as many other wines from outside of Europe, for not being suited for food and wine pairing. Bull! It's all about bringing it down to the basics; what do they eat in Argentina? Perhaps that is what we should eat as well when having their Malbec's?

Elena, Stefan and Mariela

Fourth, beautiful women presenting beautiful wines. But hey, maybe that should be at the top instead?

11 wines tasted - here follows short tasting notes:

2009 Alamos Malbec Good everyday wine. Easy drinking but not without character; herbs, red berries, slightly floral. Sun drenched fruit, balancing acidity and some tannins. Tasted while preparing Empanadas. (86-87 p)

2009 Catena Chardonnay Served with zander in sautéd butter and seasonal greens. Tropical scents and also a mineral feel backed up by vanilla oak. Pears in the taste which shows fine harmony, wet rocks, oak and acidity. Well made wine but not a Chardonnay style that speaks to me. Parts of the grapes from the Adrianna site which explains the wet rocks. Good QPR. (87-88 p)

2007 Catena Alta Chardonnay A step up and served with the fish as well. More presence in this one; integrated oak, pears, pineapple and wet rocks. Some lemon peel. A bit anonymous when tasted on its own but finds its way when paired with the fish. Excellent combination. Fine acidity, still a bit young, good oak handling and long taste. For the fan of luscious Chard's ! (89-90 p)

2008 Catena Malbec Reminds me a bit of the Alamos. More depth though with notes of blackcurrants, licorice, herbs, tobacco and vanilla. Good mouth feel, slightly bitter in its herbaceous style. Sun drenched currants. Good length. Tried with the Empanadas Salteñas. Nice matching. (87-88 p)

2007 Catena Alta Malbec Now, things are starting to happen. Dark berries, humus, intense and oak toasty on the nose. Quite restrained on the palate with blackberries, plums, wet earth and tobacco. Intense. Good tannin structure. Give it some further cellaring. Even better with the food. (90-91 p)

2007 Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon Best in this flight. A floral and blackcurranty Cab. Creme de Cassis, grass, wet rocks and fine oak handling. Young, vivid taste with compact tannins hiding in sunny currants. Some cedar character and long pure taste. Needs time. Handled the slightly chili spicy empanadas wonderfully. Who would have thought that? (91-92 p)

2006 Catena Zapata Nicasia What a flight! Served with an amazing rib-eye steak, Patagonian potatoes and plenty of Chimichurri. A month ago Nicasia was the weakest of these three (although great) but with food its micro-climate coolness became much more evident. Terrific combination with the food leaving you with the purest feel of dark berries and lots of minerality. Food and wine pairing kept simple resulting in a perfect match! For a TN on the Nicasia, click here. (92-93 p)

2006 Catena Zapata Adrianna Also the Adrianna demonstrated how well it goes with the steak. And just as the case was with the previous wine the Adrianna delivers a wet rocks boost to the taste. The garlic and chili pumped Chimichurri together with the purity of Adrianna is pure pleasure. For a TN on Adrianna, click here. (93-94 p)

2006 Catena Zapata Argentino Biggest surprise in this flight was the Argentino. I found it perhaps a bit too international in its style and the sweet fruit wasn't as much to my liking. With the rib-eye steak it was an outstanding match and the evening's aha-experience for me. This wine eats chili, herbs, vinegar and garlic for breakfast. Still a young wine with years ahead but it showed the importance of not forgetting about the essentials of wine; pair it with food, the right food. For a TN on the Argentino, click here. (93-94 p)

2006 Nicolas Catena Zapata Last two wines to taste were the Cabernet dominated ones. Served together with a Billat Savarin, two aged Swedish hard cheeses similar to a mix of Gruyère/Parmiggiano and a reduction of dark berries. The 2006 is an infant! Intense creme de cassis notes, tobacco, sun drenched blackcurrants, wet rocks and an underlying oak feel. Balanced cedar taste with blackcurrants, tobacco, wet rocks, oak and enormous tannin structure. Intense aftertaste. Many years ahead. Hard cheeses and berries; a great match. (92-93 p)

1999 Nicolas Catena Zapata A real treat directly from the Catena cellar. Big, maturing nose with notes of tobacco, wet earth, plums, currants, lead pencil and new-mown grass. For me, a BDX feel to it. Other co-tasters found a resemblance with Cali Cab. Elegant and dry taste with fine tannins, tobacco, humus, blackcurrants, mint and plum skin. Feels ready but there's still plenty of fruit and I suspect it will keep on evolving for another three or four years. Great match with the hard cheeses. My wine of the night together with Argentino. (93-94 p)

Decanter's 'Man of the year' nomination last year can't be questioned. Nicolas Catena shows the true potential in high cultivated Malbec and that their BDX blends can compete with the best in the world.

P.S. For the curious eager to find out more about Argentinian wines, Laura Catena has quite recently published her Vino Argentino. My current evening read and it is a most well-written piece not only covering wine but just as much an Argentinian lifestyle. Worth checking out.

Soon to be an Empanada Salteña!

P.S.2. Both the rib-eye steak and Chimichurri recipes can be found in Laura's book. Two other courses (and recipes in the book), served after the wine tasting, were the Dulce de leche served with crepes and finally a Helado de Torrontes. Argentine cooking - a new kitchen to discover! At least for me...

First, I cannot be. Second, I do not condescend to be. Two Hands aspiring on a future No.1 listing?

2010-11-29T20:59:00.003+01:00

Have you seen this year's Top 100 list from Wine Spectator? Whether you like lists or not, think they're stupid and rather prefer just drinking wine, this is one that can't be totally neglected. Wine Spectator is a major player amongst wine critics, like it or not, and I actually believe the list is a quite good guide if you're in need of such a one. I know I am. Telling you I only buy what interests me, without paying attention to critics would be this blog's bull of the year. How else am I to learn about areas and wines that perhaps aren't amongst my most prioritized?

I appreciate that they give up on the classic scoring list; most points win. No, this list is composed by grade, price and availability. As good as it gets. Therefore the reader will find wines with a perfect score perhaps at the lower end of the scale and not necessarily at the top.

Going through this year's list I'm excited to see a wine that over the last years has taken the role as house wine at Casa Mise en bouteille - the 2009 Sainte Cosme from Cotes du Rhone (not that the '09 has been a house wine the last three or four years). Great stuff at a great price that should attract most wine lovers. Most important though; you don't have to know the right persons in order to buy - or be tricked to buy a full case of other stuff you don't want just to get your hands on one specific bottle. Basically that is why I do read and check the Wine Spectator list - and considers it to be the most interesting one published every year.

This years Top 3 from the list (Rank, Score, Price, Wine):

1. 98 p, $67 Saxum James Berry Vineyard Paso Robles 2007
2. 94 p, $55 Two Hands Shiraz Barossa Valley Bella’s Garden 2008
3. 97 p, $85 Peter Michael Chardonnay Sonoma County Ma Belle-Fille 2008

I need to learn more about Barossa. What better way is there than to pick up the number two on this year's list?

The 2008 Two Hands Bella's Garden Shiraz is retailing in the U.S. at USD 55 (I ended up paying the equivalent of USD 63). This is not their first appearance on the Wine Spectator top list actually, but the so far best rating. Normally a wine like this would scare the s-t out of me only by looking at the label. No, don't misunderstand me - it's an elegant design and it appeals to me, but the alcohol content saying 16% is, as any other region with high alcohol table wines, met with scepticism from my side. Therefore, I'm happy to say I never even thought about the alcohol in this one when tasting!

I'm not going to re-tell you the story of Michael Twelftree and Richard Mintz - the two who formed the company. For that, please click here.

2008 Two Hands Bella's Garden Shiraz, Barossa

Is 2008 a cooler year in Barossa? I know it does sound stupid considering the alcohol is 16%, but the first impression when sniffing the wine makes me associate with other less warm regions. I know the wines from Two Hands have split tasters into two camps, but in this case my still growing Aussie reference frame takes me to Torbreck - one that I also know as more restrained. Heck, if it weren't for the slowly emerging scents of Christmas spices like cinnamon and clove - and some eucalyptus - I could easily blind guess this far away from down under! Thank god for decanting and tasting with the bottle in front of me...

No obsessive use of toasty oak and no overwhelmingly jammy or scorched earth notes. This is simply a gorgeous bouquet! Young with compact notes of blackberries and raspberries, sweet licorice, spices, dark chocolate and warm earth. You feel this is just waiting impatiently to explode on the nose but that doesn't happen during the evening, actually not the next day either when the last glass is tasted. In five or seven years perhaps?

Dry. Not really what I was expecting. "It's quite tannic", my wife says and looks at me. "But I like it!"

I confess that my changing buying patterns started a bit as a way to listen more to my wife's palate. With wines like this though we seem to share taste. Although compact tannins they are never aggressive. The pure dark red berries character is just as delicious as in some C9dP's of 2007 - in other words easy to fall in love with and drink too early! Mineral character, a bit of smoke and tar, Christmas spices returning and a fine integrated oak feel. Incredibly long but never do I feel it's thanks to the wine aspiring for a life as fortified. No, this is just delicious from the start to the end. But give it a long decanting time ahead if you're like me and can't keep fingers away.

Technical Notes on the 2008 from the producer's site:

Crushed and fermented in 5 – 10 open top fermenters with regular pump overs; three daily during peak fermentation to extract colour and tannin. A small percentage of free run is drained off and transferred to barrel to complete fermentation; remaining must receives 7 to 21 days maceration before the dry free run is drained to tank, the wine is then racked to barrel. Malolactic fermentation takes place in barrel. Minimal fining and unfiltered. 16 months in 18% new French oak hogsheads, the balance in 1-4 year old French oak. Acidity 3.4g/L; pH 7.2. (Or isn't it the opposite?) 16% alcohol.

Next time; will the Two Hands guys be able to say: Premier je suis, Second je fus, Two Hands ne change?

(2008 Two Hands Bella's Garden Shiraz, Barossa, 93-94 p)

All I need is a cigar, a signature and a fine dry red....

2010-11-26T15:49:00.002+01:00

Quick recap and moral of the Pewsey Vale The Contours vertical story: Great wines, great ageability and great QPR. Buy, cellar and enjoy!

Moving on to the Yalumba reds it's time to check out six quite different wines spanning from a young and seductive 2008 The Cigar to a fully mature 1974 Fine Dry Red 1A. The tasting session also included a vertical; 4 vintages of The Signature.

1974 FDR 1A

The Cigar is a newcomer to the Yalumba portfolio and the grapes, entirely Cabernet Sauvignon, comes from the company's Coonawarra estate, The Menzies. Vines planted 1975 and 1994. For the Cigar the younger vines are mainly used. No, this is not a perfect match with a cigar. The name simply comes from the cigar shaped strip of terra rossa soil in the Coonawarra region.

The Signature is for me synonymous with Yalumba. Created in 1962, the wine is a blend of Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz fruit. Has proven to age beautifully which is confirmed in this tasting.

As a special treat, from Yalumba's very own cellar, Louisa pours a great summing-it-all-up-wine; the first vintage of the FDR 1A - Fine Dry Red. What kindness. I'm honored!

Short notes from the tasting session

2008 The Cigar -Sloe and blueberries. Christmas spicy (cinnamon, clove), dust, a floral scent, smoke and generous toasty oak. On the palate its offering a more restrained style, good tannin structure, vanilla, dark chocolate, blueberries and a minerally finish. Young, but so delicious! (90-91 p)

2006 The Signature - Not released yet I thought Louisa said. This is a monster Signature which needs a decade to calm down. Blueberries, cream, vanilla, coffee, spices but in all that a quite classic BDX-feeling hiding. Compact tannins, enormous fruit, yet a dry feeling. Toasty oak at the moment. Long, intense. Please come back in ten years! (92-93 p)

2004 The Signature - Black olives in the first attack. Then cedar, scorched earth, blackcurrants and mint. Sun drenched red berries in the taste, oak starting to integrate, fine restrained structure, a positive green note and long finish. Elegant. (91-92 p)

2000 The Signature - More maturity to this one and also the weakest vintage of the four tasted. Cedar, wet wood, tobacco, slightly stalky, blackcurrants and licorice. Elegant and mature taste with currants, humus, cedar and tobacco. Nicely integrated oak. Drink soon is my suggestion. (90-91 p)

1991 The Signature - Fantastic wine! Elegance in a glass with soy sauce, leather, blackcurrants, humus and lead pencil. Complex almost Medoc like bouquet. Mature taste with fins silky tannins and still fruit left. Leather, licorice, tobacco and red berries. Complex taste in a medium body. Long, pure finish. Will keep a few more years. Coonawarra Cab in this one. Was that the trick? Wonderful wine! (93-94 p)

1974 FDR 1A - Nothing I am honored to taste every day. First vintage produced of the rarely seen Fine Dry Red. This is mature, oh yes, but keeping nicely together. Impressive. Soy sauce, mushrooms, dried leather, a bit floral and sun drenched red berries. No cracking up bouquet. Nuanced palate with more obvious signs of age; slightly volatile but never reducing its drinkability. Actually a harmonious mouth feel with sweet licorice, tobacco, mint and old wood. Elegant. 36 years old - would love this next to a similar aged BDX! (92-93 p)

Food with the wines? How about a charcoal grilled tender sirloin steak served with a rooster liver terrine, Blenheim apples, marrow and a red wine glace? A treat especially with the 1991 Signature beautifully demonstrating what wine is all about - accompanying great meals!

N.B. I was invited to participate by the Swedish importer of Yalumba, Vingruppen.

The contours of Riesling: a vertical tasting

2010-11-25T17:43:00.001+01:00

Coincidence? Destiny? Or just pure luck? I was excited after having tasted the 2004 The Contours Riesling from Pewsey Vale in Eden Valley and simply had to buy a case. A few days later, I received an invitation from the Swedish importer; Would you like to join us for a tasting of The Contours conducted by Louisa Rose (winemaker at Pewsey Vale)? Besides a vertical of The Contours vineyard I got the chance to taste some a few other white wines and six red Yalumba's (soon in a follow up-post).

So, coincidence? Yes, lots of it! Destiny? If so, I'm soon a believer! Pure luck? D-mn, why didn't I buy a lottery ticket as well that day!

Having just recently published a post on the 2004 The Contours I'm stealing from myself and reprinting a short background here:

The premium bottling of Pewsey Vale's Riesling is released five years after the vintage. The vineyard, planted in 1961, lies nearly 500 meters above sea level in Eden Valley and are synonymous with Australia's best Riesling region. To preserve the Riesling fruit the wines doesn't undergo any malolactic fermentation. Furthermore, it is sealed with the most beautiful of closures; the screw cap!

Short notes from the vertical of The Contours:

2005 - Lime peel, Granny Smith's, slight note of petroleum leaning towards new car mats (in this case it's actually cool!) and good concentration. Green sour apples, a floral touch, humus and citrus in the taste. Pure fruit feel. Still young. Good stuff. (90-91 p)

2004 - Compared to the '05, the '04 is more restrained on the nose. Petroleum, grass, Granny Smith's and floral. Mineral driven, bone dry green sour apple taste. Excellent mouth watering acidity. Looking forward following a case of this! (91-92 p)

2003 - Now we're down to preferences. How do you like your Riesling? More petroleum to this one, herbs, fennel, green apples and just a touch of tropical fruits. Elegant on the palate with maturing well balanced taste. Slightly mineral bitter - can I say so? Good, but I still prefer the '04. (90-91 p)

2001 - Well hello; what do we have here! A smoky, wet rocks bouquet with seducing hints of coconut, peaches and petroleum. Nuanced. The taste is a bit contrasting to the bouquet with its green apples, excellent acidity and wet rocks feel. Long, complex taste. Still a few years to go here probably. One of the best Aussie Riesling's I've ever had, possibly the best. Awesome stuff! (93-94 p)

1999 - With age comes herbs. I like it; it goes well with the petroleum notes. Green apples and lemon. And jasmine! Dry and acidity driven taste which sends out a feeling of oak (no oak in this one though) like Chablis does as well sometimes. Long, pure and mature taste. Will hold but keeping it is only suitable for those who doesn't appreciate fruit. (91-92 p)

Tasting high quality Riesling like this needs a comparison. That is taken care of by the ordinary bottling of Pewsey Vale Riesling, the 2010!

2010 - Floral nose with hints of grapefruit, coconuts, pineapple and red apple peel. Young vivid fruitiness, good acidity and floral, white peachy taste. Limes in the aftertaste. really refreshing but the straightforward style is far from The Contours series. (87-88 points)

Skeptic about Riesling not originating from Germany or France? Check out Eden Valley and do pick up some The Contours. It's not Europe (thankfully) but it is not as huge steps from it as many others.

P.S. With the wines came a first course of langoustine and oyster served with smoked lavaret roe, rusk crumbs, a pumpkin purée and lots of green stuff. Nice but I preferred my own scallops in a coconut, lime, chili thingie cream sauce...

P.S.2. There once was a time when German Rieslings were offered at an almost unbeatable QPR. Still fair prices but the question is if the 2004 The Contours, retailing around 17-18 euro's in Europe, isn't an even better offer?

Had any twelve years old Kiwi Pinot lately?

2010-11-24T17:15:00.002+01:00

My fascination with New Zealand Pinot Noir continues and doesn't seem to end. Central Otago, Martinborough, Marlborough or Waipara. Although noticing an extra weak spot for Waipara, I'm still very much into all. However, what I don't have much experience of is mature kiwi Pinot. Therefore, when bumping into the 1998 and 1999 Murdoch James Estate's premium bottling, Fraser, I'm all excited. How will these taste? Have they managed a decade of cellaring?

Roger and Jill Fraser started out in 1986 when the Martinborough estate took its first form. Starting with Pinot Noir and Syrah it took some years before their first bottlings were a fact - 1993 to be exact. Over the years the estate grew and so did the number of varieties planted.

The Fraser is one of two premium Pinot Noirs from Murdoch James and it is based on a small selection of their best barriques. Only produced in excellent years it stays around 20 months on French oak.

1998 Fraser, Murdoch James Estate, Martinborough

Hmmm...doesn't start out positive - a bit smelly right after popping. No defects however so left in the decanter for half an hour. I'm then quite surprised by the power the Fraser shows when poured together with our meal. The color is quite dark for the grape and age. Still a bit funky on the nose but that will probably just appeal to the compost loving Pinot people out there. The scents of dark cherries, leather, humus, spices and a slightly green note are perhaps not as Pinot'ish as I want but the bouquet don't have to feel ashamed for that. Old yes but not cracking up or unpleasant feel.

On the palate it shows pepper, smoke wet earth and mature notes of plums and morello's. Leaning towards a bit dried out but not to the extent that the acidity becomes volatile. Quite concentrated and long leathery finish. Continues holding together the whole evening and somewhere after being decanted for two hours it is at its best.

The general feeling is one of an experimental character. I have yet to taste the more recent vintages of Fraser, but would actually be surprised if the style hasn't changed over the last 12 years, when considering how much the wine industry has evolved during that time in New Zealand.

(1998 Fraser Pinot Noir, Murdoch James, Martinborough, 87-88 p)

P.S. Served with a bacon wrapped chicken in a creamy sauce.

P.S.2. Soon to be tasted; the 1999 Fraser Pinot Noir!

Three producers - One vineyard: Pyramid Valley Vineyards interprets Calvert

2010-11-22T15:01:00.002+01:00

Mike and Claudia Weersing; thank you! You have provided me with yet a great NZ Pinot Noir discovery.

No, I'm not exaggerating. The list of mind-blowing Pinot's from New Zealand I've had this year, keeps expanding and the variation in style impresses. Kiwi's know how to treat the tricky grape and although the industry is relative young - especially when compared to more well known Pinot regions - it feels like it's time to once and for all, acknowledge the country's fine wine producers on a worldwide level.

Looking back ten or fifteen years; where were Pinot Noir then in New Zealand? Fine examples were produced but today I can't count the number of excellent interpretations of the grape. That leaves one with anticipation and a wonder; if they're great today what will they be like in a further ten years? New Zealand is perhaps the most exciting Pinot country to follow the coming years. Start trying them now before they will get world attention and prices goes north!

A wine I've really been looking forward tasting was the Pyramid Valley Vineyards interpretation of the Calvert vineyard run by the Felton Road team in Bannockburn. Only 700 cases made of the PVV version leaving one with this slightly sad feeling it is recommending a wine with limited availability. On the other hand; Pinot lovers knows it's worth the struggle to track down beauties like this.

Three wine producers - one vineyard. Felton Road runs the Calvert site and co-producers are Craggy Range and Pyramid Valley Vineyards. Mike and Claudia Weersing are actually situated in Waikari, North Canterbury. Here they run their Home Vineyards. Biodynamically by the way, just like Felton Road in Central Otago. Tiny amounts are made of wines I've never had the chance to taste - yet. The hunt for Home has however begun!

Thanks to a fearless and quick importer, 132 bottles of the 2008 Pyramid Valley Vineyards Calvert showed up in Sweden recently.

Screw-cap. Thank you! Decanted for a couple of hours to not miss out on anything that would show up first at the last sip. A beautiful bouquet! Seductive scents of cherries, ethereal, floral notes, spices and hints of oak. During the hours followed it keeps expanding and shows impressive intensity on the nose. Not too ripe scents, just elegance.

In the mouth the first I notice is the overall harmony. Nothing sticks out. Pure fruit, seductive acidity and just a slight hint of tannins. Intense and floral with notes of raspberries and dark cherries, wet rocks and a spicy and slightly toasty finish. Long aftertaste. Simply put; purity in a glass!

Calvert is managed biodynamically by the Felton team. Soils are on schist and quartz sand.

The technical details provided by Pyramid Valley Vineyards:

Hand picked, 75% destemmed, thus 25% whole cluster, transferred by gravity to tank. Ambient soak of 3-5 days, warm indigenous yeast fermentation, 27-28 day cuvaison. Natural, spring malolactic. Fourteen months on original lees in French barriques (25% new); bottled unfined and unfiltered on the winter equinox, June 2009. Alcohol 14.3%, pH 3.71.

Man, this is all I look for in a Pinot Noir!

(2008 Pyramid Valley Vineyards Calvert Pinot Noir, Central Otago, 92-93 p)

Where do you live? Availability is the tricky part. My fellow countrymen should however act quickly if they want to taste the wine. Around 40 euro's and some bottles left. To all other readers; check out the producer's website for importers around the world.

Will it never end?

2010-11-18T15:17:00.001+01:00

May the Portuguese cork industry hunt me down in a dark alley for writing this, but I'm just so fed up with cork defect wines as one can be. I know, it's not only the cork to blaim - there can be a contamination in the wine cellar as well - but how come this is still such a huge problem? Better wine has never been made at all levels - why on earth then seal them with crap? Is the demand really that strong amongst consumers making producers harish to change closure?

Is the average wine consumer able to identify a defect wine? Or will he or she simply dismiss the wine as not to my liking and never buy it again? Should the latter be the case then the producer really has to calculate on the risks with cork closure vs alternative sealings. Sadly, tradition seems unconquerable in that sense - at least in Europe. Is the missing sound of popping really that a high psychological barrier to overcome?

Sadly, a familiar sight....

Wines that seemingly don't benefit from cellaring - or perhaps only evolves for a few years - why do they have a risky cork? If the missing pop detracts the joy of drinking wine then the consumer might need to reconsider their wine drinking. Or the producer just needs the guts to put a synthetic solution as closure instead!

Knowing the problem can be bigger than just the cork - it is still the same outcome; the consumers are the affected. How many times haven't I been in the situation where I've contacted a producer (if normal consumer laws haven't been able to act as a compulsory force) and received the answer that this is nothing they can predict or do anything about! Well, you know what; you can! Try caring about your end consumers. After all; without us you wouldn't have a business.

The Catch-22 situation of the defect bottles can't be overlooked. I'm not able to examine the bottle I'm about to purchase - that is the content which, for most of us, is the reason for buying I assume? Furthermore I'm perhaps advised by the producer to keep the wine for a certain number of years only to find out the bottle is tainted.

I know. If you don't like game rules then don't participate one might argue.But I don't buy that weak reason because a defect is a defect is a defect is a.......

-------------------------

N.B.1. Checking on internet and the 2010 Beaujolais Nouveau that is released today, I notice there are those producers who has used cork as closure. Please, tell me why. I simply don't get it, yet it clearly demonstrates the resistance...

N.B.2. The industry is talking about 2-5% damaged wines. Don't buy it and suspect it's more in the proportions of 10-15%. Just a gut feeling...

N.B.3. Yes, I do write a post like this more than once a year and they have a tendency to pop up after too many tainted bottles.

N.B.4. As a consumer, never accept you're the one that should suffer financially from a defect bottle. If a retailer or producer rejects compensation then reject any future business with them.

Champoux pour vous!

2010-11-16T01:24:00.002+01:00

Most of my wines when young show much better after they have been open for four to eight hours.

Chris Camarda, Andrew Will

My circle of American readers are steadily increasing which I most humbly thank for. For you, this posting is perhaps not as exotic as it is for me, knowing you most likely have been enjoying Chris's wines for years, but I need say it - Champoux really rocks!

There's something about Champoux vineyard, regardless of whether its the Cabernet Sauvignon from the oldest part, called Block 1, or from any other of the parcels. Block 1 was planted in 1972 and gives the backbone to Andrew Will's Sorella, a wine I had managed to completely miss out on. Until this year. Perhaps due to correlating elements such as a perfect summer day - even a Sunday, slow-roasted steak, the best gravy I've made in years, happy kids and a bottle of the 2006 Sorella decanted well ahead, provided me with the necessary prerequisites?

I don't know, but Sorella had me right from the start. Being able to follow the wine for several hours it just kept on and furthermore developed that elegance and seductive floral nose I just can't resist. I thought about it later - was I just extra sensitive that specific day or was the wine really right up my alley? Crossing fingers I popped yet a bottle a month later and yep - just as great.

Maybe I started in the wrong end when learning about the Champoux Vineyard interpreted by Chris Camarda - perhaps a better approach would have been the label simply called Champoux Vineyard. No chance in changing that so this fall I had the 2005 and 2006. Similarities with the Sorella yes, but not as mineral driven.

Still, both '05 and '06 had the floral scents and the seductive blueberry and tar notes I fell for in the Sorella. No toasted oak driven bouquet or taste although they do spend some time on oak. The Champoux manages to combine a full bodied structure, compact tannins and sun drenched fruit with elegance and that does it for me. The long and pure aftertaste in both vintages are impressive but the overall impression is that the 2005 just had that certain 'je ne sais quoi' to it. Both wines showing a decade of ageing potential.

Some words about the Champoux Vineyard; cultivated for several producers by Paul and Judy Champoux it is today owned by the Champoux's together with Andrew Will, Powers, Quilceda Creek and Woodward Canyon. Located close to the Columbia River, the vineyard is to be found at an elevation of 170 to 215 meters on sandy loam soils. The climate offers plenty of sun and wind and when checking the geographical location it is, latitude wise, more or less at the same as the Northern Rhone Valley.

The younger parcels are more densely planted compared with the older one's dating back to 1972. Yields are kept down at around 50 hectoliters per hectare which is similar to many top Chateau's in Bordeaux - taking the density into consideration as well. By the way, all vines here are on their own roots!

I'm not getting into tasting note details this time - just settling with the satisfaction it gives when discovering a producer whose wines you simply adore.

2006 Sorella, Andrew Will, Horse Heaven Hills, 95-96 points

2006 Champoux Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills, Andrew Will, 93-94 points

2005 Champoux Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills, Andrew Will, 94-95 points

N.B. Yes, drinking a young Andrew Will when talking about wines such as Sorella, Champoux, Sheridan, Ciel du Cheval or Two Blondes, you definiteley need to open way ahead and decant. Believe me, you don't want to miss out on the floral bouquet!

N.B.2. If you haven't read it previously there's a posting I did earlier this summer on Andrew Will and Chris Camarda.

N.B.3. Wan't to taste? Europeans can benefit from the German wine search engine Wein for hits. Otherwise check out Vinopedia or Wine-searcher for results.

Continuing checking out Santorini and its wines

2010-11-12T14:58:00.000+01:00

Peering out across the ancient caldera into the Agean from just about any spot on top of the beautiful Greek island of Santorini, you could be forgiven for mistaking the place for the edge of the world. And when I say “beautiful” I don’t mean beautiful in the “my backyard garden is beautiful” sense of the word; I mean beautiful in the “top ten most beautiful places on planet Earth” kind of beautiful.

Ask me to mention the one wine blog I enjoy reading the most and I'll have to say Joe Roberts 1WineDude. Earlier this summer I followed his articles on Santorini and I recommend you also give the whole article - Terroir At The Edge Of The World (In The Vineyards of Santorini) - some minutes of your time. Click here to go to 1WineDude and the Santorini story.

The opening of Joe's Santorini article is reprinted with the author's kind permission.

Also check out:

On The Road: Santorini And The (Marketing) Trials Of The Greeks

1WineDude TV Episode on Greece.

Markus Stolz: Santorini straight from the source

2010-11-10T01:18:00.000+01:00

White-painted houses, captivating deep blue color of the sea and black beaches. What else do you know about Santorini? Ever heard about - or perhaps even tasted - their sometimes stunning wines? No? Then plunge into Markus Stolz continued guidance of Greece and its wines. It's Santorini time...

Markus -the word is yours!

Santorini is one of the most stunning Greek islands and its wines have captured the hearts of many wine lovers. The terroir is unique and the wines produced have the ability to rival the greatest wines in the world. Often very complex, rich, multi-dimensional and age-worthy, these wines leave hardly anything to be desired. One of the very top producers is the Domaine Sigalas. I feel very fortunate that they have provided me with the following detailed overview of this amazing wine region. Information does not come more authentic then this – straight from the source. Please enjoy…

Viticultural Region

Santorini is part of the island complex of Cyclades, located in the South Aegean. It has a surface area of 73 sq. km and is located at a geographical latitude between 36o 19’ 56’’ and 36o 28’ 40’’ N. and a geographical longitude between 25o 19’ 22’’ and 25o 29’ 13’’ E. The viticultural region of the island has a size of approximately 1,400 hectares, starting at sea level and ascending in terraces up to the caldera, which has a height of 150 to 250 meters from sea level depending on the location.

Soil

The soil is a mixture of volcanic ash and pumice. Throughout the entire length of the island, both small and large rocks composed of magnesium and ferrous iron are encountered, as well as small and large lava deposits, all of which are of volcanic origin. The pumice (consisting of small to very small porous stones) extends from the surface, to considerable depths.

The soil of Santorini is sandy, with layers ranging in thickness upwards of 40 meters, is approximately 3600 years of age, and is not affected by the underlying layers, which consist of semi-crystalline limestones and schists. The extensive amount of small and large rocks composed of magnesium and ferrous iron is what defines the soil characteristics of Santorini. It is these formations that enrich the soil with Calcium, Magnesium, Ferrous Iron, thus increasing the G.E.C. and creating soils, with different water contents, which in the local dialect have names such as: “aspa”, “tsigro”, “fountado” etc.

The organic content in the Santorini soils is at very low levels. The same holds true for the contents of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and most other trace elements. The lack of clay and the extremely high sand content (93-97%) create a hostile environment for the Phylloxera pest. It is this fact, which saved the island vineyards from the Phylloxera epidemic, which was responsible for eradicating swathes of viticultural regions throughout the world in previous centuries, with few exceptions, one of which is the island of Santorini.

History

The viticultural region of Santorini is ancient, with varieties that date back to antiquity. According to Mr. Doumas, professor of Athens University and head of the digs in Akrotiri, archaeological finds located in the excavation of the pre-historic city of the Akrotiri, constitute definite proof of vineyards in Thira (Santorini), from as early as the 17th century BC. This prehistoric viticultural region was destroyed in the huge volcano eruption, around 1620 BC.

The viticultural region was then resurrected on new volcanic soil, as part of the renewed habitation of the island at approximately 1200 BC. One would not be exaggerating in saying that the viticultural region of Santorini is three thousand years old, given that up to the present day, it has seen uninterrupted cultivation, while the vine and the wine have been at the core of the financial, social and cultural life of the island.

The vines are classified as old vines (since they were not destroyed during the phylloxera epidemic), and are over 50 years in age. The rejuvenation of the vineyards employs the same technique from antiquity to the present day, that of “kataboladi”. This is the technique in which in the place of the dead vine, a branch from an adjacent wine is planted in the soil (to an approximate depth of 30 cm).

This new vine, is left attached to the “parent vine” for the first years, and then after 3-5 years, when it has its own roots, is cut off from the parent vine, thus creating a new one. Of course, in order to safely use this rejuvenation technique, the vineyard must consist of old vines, in order to be safe from possible Phylloxera epidemics.

Pruning

The pruning technique is both ancient and unique. It was created taking into account the soil and climate conditions of the regions, as well as the farming implements that where then available. The sandy soil, the fierce winds of spring, the time of year when the vineyard grows and the scorching sun of the summer are the reasons that led to the creation of this peculiar and unique type of pruning employed in the island. Specifically, two types of pruning, similar to the Guyot type of pruning, were created.

One type is called the “giristi”. It is applied in the places that are most exposed to wind, which constitutes the largest part of the vineyard. In this type of pruning, the vine dresser takes 4 to 5 “amolites” (one year old canes with 8-10 fruit buds), and interweaves them into a wreath of old and new vines. The vine, which is pruned in this fashion, resembles a basket made of vine twigs.

The other method of pruning is called “koulouri” or “klada”. This entails the use of 4 to 5 “amolites”. The vinedresser, using exquisite care (so that it does not break), fashions a small hollow circle, which is approximately vertical to the ground level.

Varieties

In the 1980s, 53 varieties were catalogued, both white and red, many of which are ancient.

Assyrtiko

Assyrtiko is the dominant variety of the vineyard. It is found in 90% of the white wine varieties, with white wine varieties constituting 80% of the viticultural region of the island. It is an indigenous variety, grown since antiquity and is in complete harmony with the harsh conditions of the island. It is linked to the Santorini soil with its mineral taste, its pronounced acidity and the firm structure that the wines of this variety have. For quite a few years now, Assyrtiko has been cultivated not only in Santorini but throughout Greece.

Aidani

Aidani is also a white wine variety that is indigenous to the island. It is a floral-scented variety, with relatively low acidity. Traditionally used in Vinsanto, in order to contribute to the scent bouquet of this great and renowned sweet Santorini wine. Today, Aidani, along with the other ancient Aegean variety of Athiri, are used in up to proportions of 25%, in the making of wine with Appellation of Superior Quality “Santorini”, with the rest of the 75% being covered by Assyrtiko.

Mandilaria

Mandilaria is another ancient red variety of the South Aegean. It can be found in Rhodes, Crete, Paros and Santorini. Along with the other red varieties of the island, it covers approximately 20% of the viticultural region. It is a high-tannin variety, rich in colouring substances; it matures with difficulty, most times yielding musts with aggressive and unripe tannins. It is also a variety with a very high acidity. It is exactly due to this high acidity, that traditionally, but even in the present day, it is used to produce the sun dried sweet wine of Santorini. This is an exquisite sweet red wine, which is known for its extremely high acidity, which compliments its rich residual sugar content and its tannin aftertaste.

Mavrotragano

This is a red variety indigenous to the island, which came close to extinction. It is a robust variety, with thick vine twigs, tough wood, large leaves and a small yield. The grapes are small, with reddish to black colour. The bunches of grapes are usually small to medium sized. The skin of the grape is thick, with anthocyanins that break easily; yielding must with vivid colour and many high quality tannins, with a good degree of polymerization.

In the last ten years, as part of the reorganization of the vineyard, our company, as well as other wineries of the island, has planted to the present day (winter of 2008) 8 hectares with this variety, and we feel that our winery is playing a leading role in saving this rare and exceptional indigenous variety of the Santorini viticultural region

The red wine produced from Mavrotragano is a wine rich in mild tannins, with a distinctive and rich perfume, with a full and textured flavour, which leaves a lingering after-taste. From the results yielded so far, it is a variety that can be used in the making of quality wines, with personality and a long extended aging time.

Climate

The climate is best described as Mediterranean, with mild winters and cool summers, due to the strong northerly winds in the summer, with durations of up to a month. The vines are also relieved from the heat from the sea breeze. Average annual rainfalls range up to 350 mm, and the average temperature is 16.5ο C.

At night in summer, during most summer times the humidity created by the sea, especially the caldera sea, due to the high day time temperatures, falls like a gentle rain at the surface of the soil and vine leaves. This ‘‘rain’’ known by the locals as ‘‘pousi’’ (meaning a mist rising from the sea) soothes the vines from the high temperatures during the day. The chill, which descends on the island during the summer night’s -largely as a result of the great temperature differences between day and night-, attributes to the high quality of the wine produced in Santorini.

Viticultural Museum

The unique soil of Santorini which sheltered the vineyards from the phylloxera epidemic, resulted in Santorini being one of the few places in the world where old vines can be located, with the viticultural region being more than 3000 years old, with vines aged at more than fifty years, a unique pruning method as well as individual ancient varieties. All these make the viticultural region of Santorini, a historical viticultural area, and a viticultural museum. This region is one that yields unique wines, of exceptional qualities, which as they age, are living embodiments of the land of Santorini with all its eccentricities, this unique terroir, which is the Santorinian viticultural region.

Editor's note: So, you managed all the way down here. Fascinating stuff, isn't it? Want to check out some Santorini wines? Then here follows some good links to retailers.

EU citizens can order from the Griechischer Weinversand in Germany. Their selection of Santorini wines are most impressive.

US readers will find a detailed list at Vinopedia for retailers of Santorini wines.

In UK, Slurp.co.uk offers Hatzidakis Santorini wines and for my Swedish readers the importer Carovin offers Domain Sigalas.

N.B. Text and photographs belongs to Markus Stolz at Elloinos and are with his permission kindly reprinted here.

Actually, it's the whole essence of wine....

2010-11-08T14:58:00.002+01:00

My wife doesn't really get it - why I like Pinot. Don't get me wrong - she too sometimes appreciates it - but the acidity driven red wines are simply not her thing. White and Riesling on the other hand....

At our house I'm the wine freak. She likes a good glass but our preferences differ a bit. Perhaps that's changing now - thanks to my wandering palate?

Let me explain. When my wife wants a Cabernet Sauvignon for example, I know she doesn't refer to a Medoc. In almost every case she prefers a Californian ditto. When we had Shafer's 2005 One Point Five Cabernet she loved the wine from the very first sip - and I didn't show her the bottle ahead. Should I however pour a Medoc I can see it directly she's not as fond of what's in the glass.

My wife likes wine with power. Not overly extracted one's but a full bodied style with elegance to them. Since she doesn't bother that much on producers, vintages, grapes, ratings and so on, she is very true to her taste. I envy that. She knows what she likes and doesn't spend hysterically much time in testing her palate.

So, when my buying patterns now includes more and more wines from outside of Europe I notice her liking. More often when we have wine she's satisfied with my choices. Some week ends ago I poured her a glass of the 1997 The Bishop Shiraz from Glaetzer in Barossa. She was ecstatic! I was too! Pure drinking pleasure!

Too many Aussie wines are judged by their often overwhelming character when young, but how many try to cellar them? The Glatezer bottle was perfect now with mature notes of spices, blackberries, dark chocolate, ecualyptus, smoke and lovely integrated toasty oak. I confess; the bouquet went directly to my heart with its easy-to-like character.

On the palate it's simply one of those hard-to-resist tastes. Fullbodied, mature and yet quite elegant. Red berries, meaty, spicy and with fine oak adding chocolate and licorice tobacco. Mature tannins, fine acidity and a long finish. Gorgeous stuff.

Sharing a bottle both are enthusiastic about is so much more fun. Actually, it's the whole essence of wine!

(1997 The Bishop Shiraz, Glaetzer, Barossa, 91-92 points)

N.B. Wan't to know where to get your hands on this beauty?

N.B. 2. Aussie's do handle age impressively. A tasting last week clearly demonstrated that Yalumba's The Signature all the way to the 1991 was in great condition. Also a still going strong 1974, showed it's not only Europeans that can take a decade or two - or three! Post coming soon.

N.B. 3. Belgium Wine Watchers!

Christos Kokkalis - Part two

2010-11-05T11:24:00.001+01:00

My guest blogger Markus Stolz yesterday presented Christos Kokkalis and his winery in the western Peloponnesos. Today it's my turn to present one of my coolest finds this year - the 2008 Trilogia from Christos!

Writing about a wine that many never will get the chance to taste - not because it's hysterically expensive, no - but due to the fact only 6,000 bottles are produced yearly, makes me a bit insecure. There's no interest in it for me bragging like 'Hey look, I'm drinking a wine you can't find - or afford!' because then I could only write about the top names of France which cost just as much a bottle like the entire collection of my monthly bills. And hence write a post maybe twice a year....

No, Trilogia costs 30 Euro's in Germany but sadly many of my readers don't have access to the German market. To you who hasn't; tell your wine retailer about Christos Kokkalis Trilogia! This is without doubt a great Greek!

Christos started the production of Trilogia in 1997. Working as a pharmacist for a big part of his life in Germany , he also took some wine classes to build up his theoretical skills. Then, in the 90's he purchased a small vineyard in the western Peloponessos and started planting his Cabernet's - turning the theoretical knowledge into real stuff. It didn't take long before Christos started to receive acknowledgment for what he was doing and I can't help but wonder how much a winemaker actually is an artist or just an educated winemaker?

Christos clearly demonstrates in his wine that he's more than a pharmacist. He's an artist as well! I guess some just has that special 'je ne sais quoi' feeling when it comes to producing great wines - with or without prior training.

I popped a 2008 Trilogia - a wine entirely based on Cabernet Sauvignon. Quick sip to check status: Oh my, what do we have here! This is good stuff!

Then keeping my fingers away the wine was allowed to breathe, and although I was aware of this being way too young, I needed to taste and check what was in the bottle.

Christos vineyards are organically farmed and he treats the Trilogia with great respect; no fining or filtration, low yields and no water irrigation. The wine spends 18 months on French and American oak and here my first wandering starts.

Tasting the wine I am immediately flattered by the almost Californian air this wine sends out. Still, there's a minerality I haven't bumped into before, a spiciness sending me to the Rhone Valley and then there's this fresh mint scent reminding me of great Medoc Cabernet Sauvignon. The barrique is well integrated and not at all dominating, although they are present with the scents of ground coffe, dark chocolate and a slight vanilla note. It's the floral, humus, blackcurrants, blueberries, mint and spices that caughts my attention. It's dense and has that feeling of a high class wine on the nose. Still in its primary phase but I tell you, it doesn't hurt to drink - unless you're afraid of tannins because the 2008's tannin structure knocks you!

On the palate it is, besides the impressive tannins, a dry wine full of sundrenched blackcurrants and blueberries with floral notes, oak, bay leafs and fresh tobacco. It has plenty of fruit to cope with the tannins and the acidity is in harmony with the other components. Long and pure aftertaste with a floral touch to it.

This I tell you, is worth seeking out. Not only because it is a great wine and has at least a decade or 15 years ahead of cellaring, but also because it might be the best Greek red you've ever had. Trilogia is the perfect example of a wine that clearly shows that high quality and personal wines emanates from all over the world today. I guess we will, in a decade or two, talk about Peloponessos characteristics in wines, but if you already now wants to discover it then pick up a Trilogia.

Bought at Wolfgang Weber's Der Wein Weber in Germany.

(2008 Trilogia, Christos Kokkalis, 92-93 points)

Guest blogger Markus Stolz: Presenting Greece

2010-11-04T01:07:00.002+01:00

Imagine the following. You're standing there in the wineshop. The shelves are filled with French, German, Italian and Spanish wines. American wines, Aussie's, Kiwi's and South African's. You name it. But Greek wines? Probably none. If there were any, how many of you would pick up an Agiorgitiko or a Xinomavro prior to the established, but not necessarily, superior wine countries?

Markus

Markus Stolz would! Markus, a German, lives with his Greek wife and their four children in Athens, where the wines of Greece first captivated him. He holds the advanced certificate of the WSET, and authors Elloinos, one of the most respected information sources on Greek wines. He can be found on twitter @elloinos.

Greek wines are often overlooked, so in order to help spreading some light I have invited Markus as a guest contributor for a series of articles on Greece and its wines. And what could be better to start off with than, as Markus puts it, the Greek Le Pin – Kokkalis Estate!

Markus - the word is yours!

Taking part of the Kokkalis 2009 harvest!

The story of Christos Kokkalis is well known – he is the man who was a pharmacist in Germany for most of his life, then decided to sell out and start making wine in Greece. He wanted to show the world that great quality could be produced in Greece. He had no prior winemaking knowledge and took his chance.

He produces 3 labels:

1) Mova, an Agiorgitiko and Cabernet Sauvignon blend.
2) Syrah
3) Trilogia, a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.

All wines are stunning; Trilogia has become an icon that regularly outdoes French Grand Cru wines under blind tasting conditions.

I went to Skafidia where I spent 2 days with him helping at the harvest and the winemaking. This was a great experience and I learned a lot – not only of the mechanics involved, but also about the decision making process. The Cabernet grapes were harvested under perfect conditions the week before. Suddenly last weekend, heavy rains hit the vineyard. The Syrah grapes are very fragile, and many were split open. Christos explained that the skins of Syrah split very easy, it is similar to glass breaking. After the skins were damaged, the wasps started circling in quickly to take some juicy bites. The risk of disease also increased.

The mood on Monday morning was clouded, although the sun was out. Despite the heat turning up, the vineyard was still muddy. Christos had given the order to pick the grapes at dawn – he said that conditions until this weekend were perfect. He would have liked to start the harvest of the Syrah one week later, but his hands were tied.

All grapes were handpicked, placed into plastic boxes that were stacked on a platform of a tractor; from there the boxes were placed on a truck and immediately transported to the winery. The winery is not really a winery – it is a large garage in the back of the private house of Christos. It functions as the winery, and it is here that all the winemaking takes place. There are no automated processes – every step of the winemaking process is done mechanical.

The grapes filled the air with their aromas, I just stood there for a minute and sniffed, it was wonderful. The boxes were emptied into the crusher, 4 boxes at a time. The crushed must of the first two loads was transferred into large plastic buckets, after this all must was transported into the stainless steel tanks. The large plastic buckets were placed to the side, and we proceeded to crush this mass of pulp by hand and sieved it in order to collect the pure juice.

This juice then has a crucial role: A part of it is mixed with enzymes and added to the stainless steel tanks that by now, started filling up with the must. Another part was used to mix with sulphur – the smell of it was hard to take, I nearly fainted. This was also added carefully to the must. Another part is used as a sample. We delivered this to the oenologist who ran lab tests. A couple of hours later Christos took me and showed me how to prepare the yeast. Warm water was combined with sugar; the yeast was carefully mixed in by hand. The resulting blend was then transferred to the tanks that by now were pumped over continuously.

Christos

After hearing the results of the lab test, the mood of Christos lightened up a lot. He had feared that the acidity levels might turn out low, which they did not. Apparently the harvest took just place in time. The grapes delivered a lot less juice than in other years, as the water inside the grapes dried out quickly after the rain had split the skins. Alcohol levels remained high, so no premature fermentation had occurred. The must was much more concentrated than in any other year; this just might result in a super rich wine. It is too early to tell now, but over the next 2 to 3 weeks Christos will closely follow the evolution of the Syrah.

Monday night we went out for dinner in a fish taverna. After the meal we had a bottle Syrah 2006 to celebrate the harvest. The wine has a deep purple colour and really started to open up after an hour. It has big fat aromas of cassis, mocca, spices and hints of vanilla. It is rich and fullbodied. In my opinion it might even outlive the great Trilogia 2006. The Syrah did not tire out at all – it only got more interesting with time.

On Tuesday, we brought in the second half of the harvest and repeated the work from Monday, but now everybody was in a good mood. Another experience for me was to taste my youngest Trilogia wine ever, the 2009 vintage that was now 5 days old. It was totally fascinating to see how grape juice transforms into wine. After 5 days, I could already taste the rich fruits and the tannins were very evident. This was not any longer juice, but also not yet wine. It made me think of a butterfly that picks out a foot of his cocoon, ready to enter another world.

Harvest at Kokkalis Estate presented by Markus

Editor's note:

Christos Kokkalis doesn't nurture a dream of becoming a Greek equivalent of the Grand Cru's from Bordeaux. No, he simply wants to show us that the western Peloponnesos offers ideal conditions for production of high quality wines. There's no secret recipe in his way of proving that - it's all about the usual stuff; keeping the yield down, no water irrigation, thinning, strict selection and so on.

The Kokkalis wines are hard to track down but for Europeans with the possibility to go e-shopping, the three wines can be found at Wolfgang Weber.

Soon: Checking out the 2008 Kokkalis Trilogia!

Viva Catena Zapata!

2010-11-02T11:29:00.002+01:00

I don't know if it's the high altitude, the ungrafted vines or simply just a matter of personal preferences? When I long for a top class Malbec it's Argentina who delivers. Cahors in all its glory and long history seldomly appeal to my taste buds. And also; if there's any wine to taste right after the quartet of divine Cote-Rotie's from E.Guigal, it got to be Argentinian Malbec!

This year has so far delivered a discovery that took me by storm; the high altitude grown Nerello Mascalese on the slopes of Etna in Sicily. Their mineral driven character, probably just as much due to the volcanic soil as the altitude between 600-1,100 meters above sea level, fascinates me and is spot on my preferences. Well, say hello to the single vineyards of Adrianna and Nicasia then! The latter is situated 1,180 meters above sea level in the La Consulta district and Adrianna is planted at 1,480 meters above sea level in the district of Gualtallary in Tupungato!

Catena Zapata are probably together with Achaval-Ferrer providing the consumer with the very best of Malbec's. Just as with young Malbec from Cahors they're extremely tough to judge in their youth. The fruitiness can be overwhelming and make it difficult to see the matrix in ten years. I confess, I'm not a Neo, but the 2006 Catena Zapata bottles tasted, were popped 24 hours earlier and perhaps that did the trick - never have I felt such mineral driven character in young Argentinian Malbec's!

Three Catena Zapata's were tasted; the 2006 Nicasia Vineyard Malbec, 2006 Adrianna Vineyard Malbec and the 2006 Argentino Malbec.

2006 Catena Zapata Nicasia Vineyard Malbec (92-93 points)

A young vineyard planted in 1996 and a part of the Lot 1 in the Altamira Vineyard. On its own roots - hey, we're in Argentina -and located 1,180 meters above sea level. The Nicasia vines goes through it all; shoot removals, cluster thinning, strict water restriction and leaf thinning before harvest. In 2006 that lead to yields of 2,5 tons per hectare, and for those of you thirsting for more details that translates into a yield of 625 grams per plant (considering the plantation density is 4,000 plants per hectare).

Harvest started on the 18th of April which resulted in an 86 day long window from veraison to harvest for the Malbec to enjoy. A high polyphenolic accumulation in other words. Wow, do the winemaker Alejandro Vigil, handle that beautiful in the wine or not!

No need to talk about color on the Catena Zapata trilogy - I can easily ascertain you they're all dark as the night. The Nicasia is a bombardment of wet rocks, dark berries, tobacco, sweet root, cherry stones and toasted oak. The high altitude grown grapes are well expressed in the bouquet. Although intense it still has elegance as its trademark on the nose. The taste is intense with huge fruit concentration and massive tannins that are yet well hidden. Boysenberries, licorice, wet rocks and a violet feeling. Toasty oak and a dry feeling to the wine makes this easy to like. Long, intense aftertaste with the purest fruit feel you can imagine.

As always with these wines, they are judged by the style they show when young. I mean, how many would think of the idea to put a Nicasia in the cellar for ten years? Please, consider it!

2006 Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard Malbec (93-94 points)

Moving on to the 2006 Adrianna and also moving upwards, pinnacle wise and topographically speaking. We're at 1500 meters above sea level and if the high altitude was evident in the Nicasia this wines has an air of coolness all over it. The Adrianna Vineyard was planted in 1992. On its own roots yes and if the yields were low on Nicasia we're even down on 570 grams per plant now! Also, add three extra days of maturation on the vines.

Oozing of wet rocks and earth! Boysenberries, freshly crushed berries, cherry stones, floral scents and nicely integrated toasted oak. What elegance! What intensity! Just like the Nicasia it has that dry feeling to it although the fruit is sweet. Mineral driven taste, tobacco, ground coffe, violets and dark berries. Lovely presence and delineation in this wine and for me it is a pinnacle up from the Nicasia. Huge tannins, fine acidity and fruit for a long life. 18 months on new oak. Just like the previous 'LaLaLa' wines I can only ask; where did that go? Long, long finish. Best in show if you ask me. Love it!

2006 Catena Zapata Argentino Malbec (93-94 points)

So, what happens if you take some of the Malbec's from Nicasia and some from the Adrianna? Then you have the Argentino - somewhat of a super premium cuvee from Catena Zapata. Although yet a majestic piece adding complexity compared to the single vineyard wines, I can't help but think this is a bit too styled for my taste. The personality of Nicasia and Adrianna speaks directly to my terroirist preferences and I don't get as excited over Argentino. Still - and this is important to state - it's a wine with an extra dimension and if I'd try it again in a decade I would perhaps change my mind and prefer it to the other.

More toasted oak in the bouquet; dark chocolate and ground coffee. Boysenberries, tobacco, violets, licorice and spices. More complex bouquet which probably will evolve beautiful over the years. Huge concentration - yet elegant. On the palate it's massive with sweet mature berries; blueberries, boysenberries and plum skin, violets, licorice and a wet rocks feel to it.

Toasted oak adding vanilla and dark chocolate and coffee notes. Impressive tannin structure and long, long finish. After having the Nicasia and Adrianna you react on the sweeter taste to this one. Checking residual sugar it also confirms what I suspected; Argentino has 4,5 grams of residual sugar per liter and the other two is at 2 grams. Is this what makes me split? After all; great Bordeaux in need of decades also had sweetness to them.....

2007 Luca Malbec, Uco Valley, Mendoza (92-93 points)

A quartet of Guigal super premium wines followed up by a Catena Zapata race were truly memorable. But it didn't stop there. A final Malbec was popped and poured as a good comparison. The 2007 Luca Malbec from Uco Valley is a project of Laura Catena's, daughter of Nicolas Catena. Another style of Malbec compared to the Catena Zapata's and also from older vines. If I've understood it correct the vineyards aren't owned by Catena but contracted. This one's from more than 40 years old ungrafted vines in the Uco Vally in Mendoza. A year on 60% new French oak.

Now, this is totally different in style! It's medicinal, leathery, floral, herbaceous and more blackcurranty on the nose - reminding more of a European wine. Wonder where I'd place this one in a blind tasting? The funky nose is quite seductive and perhaps a lesser vintage than the 2006 can explain the style?

On the palate it is more european again with blackcurrants, spices, smoky notes, wet rocks and tobacco. Fine acidity and drinking quiyte beautifully already. Good concentration, moderate tannin structure andfruit enough for a further five years of cellaring. For traditional wine consumers frightened by the Argentinian Malbec style this is a very fine option.

Until now, hope to see you in a decade Nicasia, Adrianna and Argentino!

---------------------------------------------------

N.B. Tasted at the Swedish importer, Vinunic.

N.B.2. For a better understanding of the vineyard's location, check out the map here.

N.B.3. Photographs on the Nicasia and Adrianna vineyards.

Oh la la la! (Or: When wine gets you emotional and you can't decide whether to laugh, run around or just start crying!)

2010-10-29T12:38:00.003+02:00

Vinously speaking, I will remember and cherish Thursday the 28th of October 2010 for a long time! Too seldom do I get the chance to taste the super premium wines of E. Guigal. I honestly confess I have serious issues in paying 220+ euro's for a single bottle of the recent vintage released on the market. I also however, confess these wines are reference points for me - wines I do need to taste in order to remind myself why I'm into this stuff. Contradictive? Perhaps, but most of all a struggle with my inner conscience (and trying to get my wife's approval of such a purchase!).

For most of us the quartet of Chateau d'Ampuis, La Landonne, La Mouline and La Turque plays in the Major League and we're translocated to the spectator bench. Self-elected perhaps, but still, my own track record of 'LaLaLa' wines aren't impressive; four different tasted over a period of thirteen years. So most of the time I've tasted the wines through tasting notes of the more fortunate.

Yesterday I was amongst the lucky ones! I realize my impressions of the quartet won't function as a 'to buy-list' for you dear reader but consider this merely an inspirational post saluting one of the wine world's greatest!

Having just had the 2005 Cote Rotie Brune et Blonde (92-93 p) - a massive and perhaps a bit atypical style, I was poured the 2006 Chateau d'Ampuis. A mix of 93% Syrah and the rest being Viognier, it spent 38 months on entirely new oak! Just reading this would probably scare off more than one, but the fact is: the wine chews oak for breakfast!

Ok, the barrique is there but it never gets the chance to dominate. Instead the wine's origin leads the way with an air of elegance accompanying. The perfumed notes emanating from Viognier adds depth that, for me, makes this Cote-Rotie an emotional wine. The spiciness, dark berries, iron and violets are sublime and this is just one of those bouquet's that are impossible to describe, since it is constantly changing character.On the palate the d'Ampuis shows a massive structure with huge amounts of fruit, silky but yet massive tannins and lovely restrained acidity. Long, lingering aftertaste with such a fine taste from both the oak and the pure fruit. Retailing at around 100 euro's this, I think, could be that one wine to buy when in need of a reference point. Knowing the three 'LaLaLa' is awaiting I'm already questioning if they really can be that much better?

(2006 Chateau d'Ampuis, Cote Rotie, 95-96 points)

Well, guess what -they are superior! If d'Ampuis were an emotional ride I don't know how to express myself when it comes to the 2006 La Mouline. I could hardly start dancing around there in the tasting room - or start crying for that matter! This is one of those wines I really need once in a while in order not to question my wine passion. It stirs up emotions, speaks directly to the heart and is simply put; a dream to taste!

The high percentage of Viognier from ancient vines in La Mouline is perhaps what's attracting me. Just as the case were with the d'Ampuis bottle it shows an elegance and perfume difficult to describe. There's this air of sheer world class surrounding the wine and although the La Mouline is the one expressing most oak scents in the trilogy, it never allows the barrique to dominate. 42 months of oak and not an oak monster! Eat that doubters (me included)!

The glass fills the nose with perfumed scents, toasty new oak, red berries, spices, humus and violets. First when returning to the glass later on the dark chocolate shows up and a light feeling of kirsch. Never overworked, just craftsmanship at its very est. The elegance being the wine's trademark in the bouquet continues on the palate. Such fine concentration, massive tannins and tickling acidity. Great length. On the palate the perfumed notes shows up again together with humus, violets, spices, an iron like feeling and kirsch.

I could give this a perfect rating since I have a hard time keeping back the emotions. I'll settle with just saying this is sheer world class and a reference wine for all who strives for the elegance of a Cote-Rotie! By the way; La Mouline is the oldest vineyayrd of the three with vines averaging 80-90 years.

(2006 La Mouline, Cote Rotie, Guigal, 97-98 p, trying to be professional, 98-99 p when just listening to my inner senses)

When La Mouline is all about elegance the La Turque adds a bit of power to the complexity. Lesser percentage of Viognier it is more of a mineral driven wine for me, it also shows darker cherries, less oak feel and a more meaty and spicy style. Doesn't speak to you as immediate as the La Mouline but has a bit more structure to it - which evolves in the glass.

But, this wine is all about having all components there and showing such presence! The violets, Valrhona bitter chocolate, licorice and warm earth gives me an impression of a denser wine. Still, elegance is its trademark. On the palate it shows a tougher structure than the previous one. A bit more solid, not as silky tannins and more dark fruit to it. The concentration is impressive and the meatier style is awesome. Great never ending length. World class precision. Could I have a dozen please?

(2006 La Turque, Cote Rotie, Guigal, 98-99 points)

La Landonne stands out as the most impenetrable of them all. Not color wise but with its composition entirely based on Syrah, it has even more stuffing to it. It oozes of warm earth, smoke, dark cherries, kirsch, meat and spices. 42 months on new oak? Now, where did that go? This monster seems capable of chewing even more barrique!

Smoky, meaty notes with black olives, cherry stones, plum skin, violets and Christmas pudding in the taste. Awesome wine with huge amounts of tannins, acidity backing up and fruit to last decades. A humus driven aftertaste and first here the oak contribution is more evident. A true masterpiece!

(2006 La Landonne, Cote Rotie, Guigal, 98-99 points)

So, what about that d'Ampuis after my senses has been run down by the 'LaLaLa' wines? Still a tremendous wine but doesn't really play with the big guys and reaching up to the same greatness. However, Guigal et C:o had me at d'Ampuis and it is hard to believe there's even more to come! I don't know if it's worth speaking of prices. A 'LaLaLa' wine is 120 euro's more a bottle but then they all gave me tasting experiences I can live on for years. If you, at any point, feel an urge to treat yourself with a unique tasting experience perhaps it is worth skipping buying a case of wine one month - and just pick up a single bottle?

N.B. I was invited to taste the wines together with three other wine bloggers in Sweden. Claes Lindkvist, CEO at the importer, Vinunic - a part of Vingruppen, will release the wines in Sweden next week. Although these probably will sell without him needing a push from a wine blogger I'm most thankful for Claes inviting us to taste the wines. Some would say it's all about keeping a good relationship with bloggers and actually I'm fine with that. I don't have any issues with it - I mean; I still only write about wines that has an impact on me. Thank you so much Claes!

Weekly reflections of a wine lover - #60

2010-10-26T16:38:00.011+02:00

This year I feel like being back at my old school desk again. Although wine is a constant learning procedure it is also filled with sneaky pitfalls called prejudices. It's easy to trumpet 'I don't like this or that' and when you're not keeping up with what's happening within the regions one dislike, the prejudices grows stronger.

I have tasted my way around the globe several times. My passion has kept on for 15+ years and now when I'm going back I realize how much the wine world has changed. There's much more to Chile than blackcurrant flavors, New Zealand is not synonymous with Sauvignon blanc, Australian wine is not flavored booze and classic European wine regions are not all about low alcohol and food friendly wines. Give the regions you dislike a chance, not only the cheap buy's. Also pick up some within the same price range as you allow yourself when it comes to the favorite regions.

I'm almost feeling exhausted taking to me all the upgrades and discovering new favorites around the world. You are what you seek so please, for your own sake, extend the radar!

Thanks for reading my weekly mumbo jumbo reflections - #60.

I consider myself a nice guy. Seldomly do I rack down on a wine on my blogs mainly because I prefer writing about positive experiences. I'm not a critic, don't aspire to be and do not want to be. That doesn't mean I only will communicate a perfect little world. Some issues do annoy me to that extent I can't shut up. This time the unlucky guys are the border shops; in my specific case German border shops towards Denmark and the ferry lines connecting with Sweden.

Conscience is an unfamiliar phrase since the shops doesn't give a d--n when it comes to loyal customers and what's actually on the shelves. Now, I know, it's in the customers own interest not to be tricked - and perhaps be a bit more oriented than they are - but the sales people are smart. They know the average wine buyer has a limited knowledge but recognizes famous wine regions or appellations such as Saint Emilion, Bourgogne or Brunello di Montalcino. The fact that it stops there; no domaine names or Chateau's are familiar with the buyer, is also something the retailer takes advantage of.

So, expect to find a Saint Emilion, Brunello or other well-known wine for a great price - impossible to compete with in Denmark or Sweden. Also expect it to be a vintage the more serious retailers try to avoid as much as possible - when strict selection is the key to not fool your customers. Also expect to find labels or property's no serious wine drinker has bumped into before.

I got a gift this summer - a 2005 Brunello di Montalcino from Duca di Croce. Bought in a border shop in Rostock. The Italians have a saying; 'A cavallo donato non si guarda in bocca' - Don't look a gift horse in the mouth. So yes, I should keep my mouth shut but it annoys me this 'tricking the consumer' is allowed to continue. 20 Euro's for a wine that is not defect but just so uninteresting and dull it barely gets a 83-84 points score, is not acceptable. The scam continues; my mother was proud to have found a bargain on the Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc. The sales guy told her it was half the price from where she lived. He was right. He just forgot to tell her it was a six years old Sauvignon blanc...

Think twice before buying at border shops. And to wine producers; I know it's tough to keep an eye on where your wines are sold, especially when they're ,like in this case, probably purchased from a bankrupt retailer. But please try to do some google searching. It's your good name that gets affected - not the scrupolous border shop!

With the border shops in mind I can't keep away from drawing parallell's with the sale Wolfgang Weber had in the beginning of the summer. For a tener I got the Molino di Grace 2004 Chianti Classico and that is an outstanding wine soon at its very best.

We had it at three or four occasions during the summer and thinking of the dull Brunello this clearly shows how important it is to find a retailer you can trust. Wolfgang told me he won't sell a wine he wouldn't serve himself - and although risking I'm sounding like an advertisement - I must give the man credit. His portfolio isn't the biggest but as always, quality should be the keyword and nothing else! (2004 Molino di Grace, Chianti Cl., 90-91 p)

Beaujolais 2009! It's time to tell you all about the seductive 2009 Beaujolais Vieilles Vignes from Alain Chatoux. This is hard to beat at £8,95 buying a case (£9,95/bottle). 700 meters above sealevel, in Sainte Paule, you will find Alain's vineyards. Considering how many ordinary Beaujolais on the market that demands the same prices it's easy to shout bargain, bargain!

Alain's old vines are old - averaging 60 years of age - and that is for sure evident in the wine. The red berries, floral notes, humus, lead pencil and slightly banana feel on the nose is quite attractive. There's a good intensity and concentration for an ordinary Beaujolais - if you can call a wine from that old vines ordinary - and as always, a bit chilled, it's even more pure in its aromas. Good mouth feel with mouthwatering acidity, red berries, banana, a floral note and humus. Good grip and with our Carbonara it's a tough one to beat. Although showing plenty of drinkability already there's no hurry. Fine acidity, tons of fruit and a hint of tannins makes this good for short term cellaring, say two or three years. (2009 Beaujolais V.V., A. Chatoux, 88-89 p)

This year is insane! First the coldest winter in ages with temperatures around -20 C and then we went to Madeira in February and March to find out a flooding had swept away houses, people and cultivations. Thinking we would be back in Sweden to spring was wrong - last day of March was still snowy! The cold weather continued for quite a while but the reward was worth it; a lovely warm summer! But then, in August, it started pouring down. Quite windy as well. Huge amounts of rain came. And in a sudden, the great summer was blewn away. Last Friday then, winter came. Snowstorm on the 22nd of October already! It will be a tough one to accept six months of darkness and cold. Boy, I miss my summer!

Saint Emilion is the shit...

Think my youngest daughter agrees.....she seems to be like her daddy - hates snow.

My wandering palate has brought me to New Zealand. Not that I haven't been following the wines before, oh no. It is just impossible to disregard the enourmos progress taking place! Pinot's of great purity and a sense of origin, Chardonnay's challenging the best from Burgundy, Pinot Gris' the way I like them and also some really exciting Riesling's. Recently the Daniel Schuster 2006 Omihi pulverized a Pousse d'Or Volnay tasted side by side and then shortly after I tasted a top Chardonnay from Felton Road - the 2007 Block 2 (rated 93-94 points).

When the NZ gang came to Stockholm I simply couldn't miss the chance to taste through especially 2008 and 2009 for the reds and 2009 and 2010 for the whites. Without starting a bombardment of producers and their wines I can simply just applaud the quality demonstrated amongst all price ranges. I can get a great Pinot at EUR 15 with lots of character and origin (Waipara Hills and Seifried for example) or a world class ditto at 30-40 euro's (Felton Road, the classic example).

But it doesn't stop there; expressive Syrah's, BDX-blends and crisp Sauvignon's also impressed. New Zealand has found its identity and now it's only for the consumers to understand what awaits them. When they do, it will be tough to go back to expensive and uninspring generic Burgundie's at the same price as a Waipara Hills. I'm overwhelmed and if you're one of my followers I hereby alert you; there will be a lot of kiwi postings coming up on my blog!

Chilean wine producers are obviously on a tour around the world. They came to Stockholm on the 11th of October and I took the chance to see how Chile were performing at the moment. It's still both ups and downs but some trends are most positive to report back on;

1. Chilean winemakers aren't that keen with new oak anymore and:

2. the style of many wines are leaning towards a more restrained one.

I applaud their increased respect to the wine's place of origin. Especially wines produced at higher altitudes has a fascinating structure, and the fact many are blessed with both ungrafted and 80-100 years old vines adds depth to the wines.

Really nice finds were for example Terra Noble in the Maule Valley. Splendid varietal wines and impressive premium wines as well. Keeping in mind all wines were young they still showed a restrained style and especially the Carmenère Reserva and Gran Reserva I liked a lot. It's easy to pick on Carmenère due to its often green notes of pepper, but many of the wines tasted had fine tannins and acidity backing up. Beautiful and food friendly wines with lots of personality. The premium bottle of Terra Noble, 2007 Lahuen, was impressive at around 20-22 euros (91-92 points).

Miguel Torres Chilean adventures keeps impressing. Both the 2006 Manso de Velasco (93-94 p) and 2003 Conde de Superunda (92-93 p) are great wines. Funny actually, I think I could have placed the Manso de Velasco as the Penedès Mas la Plana! Both are Cabernet Sauvignon but when the Chilean version originates from 100 years old vines and spends 18 months on 60% new oak, that is not the case with the Spanish version (not as old vines, same age on oak but 100% new). Still, the similarities are there and the 2006 is a young wine in need of at least five more years of cellaring. It's a great red and the bottle to pick up if you're a sceptic. But be warned André van Rensburg! You risk ending up having to reevaluate your whole prejudiced view of Chilean wine.

We can't produce wine of interest in Sweden. The few wines emerging from here are well, well-made, but hysterically expensive and produced on boring grapes such as Rondo or Regent. But some things we can do! From the most southern parts of the country, where I come from, we have our very own version of olive oil - the canola oil. Cold-pressed canola from organic cultivations is just as healthy as the Mediterranean version but then it's fun to support the domestic industry.

My family and I visitied Gunnarshögs Gård in August this year to find out more about their products. Since then I've hardly used any olive oil realizing how delicious the substitute were; canola oil and linseed oil. Also, I bought my very first bag-in-box! Beat that if you can; a 3 liters box filled with organic canola oil! To find out more about Gunnarshögs Gård their products can be purchased via e-shopping. Can't wait to see the rapeseed fields flower again - that's Skåne in a nutshell for me; at least the parts where I come from.

Sticking to the edible section - have you ever heard of - or tasted - an anonas? I found them on the market in Funchal and thought they looked odd. Was it a vegetable or a fruit? Only one way to find out!

Did this taste delicious or not? Creamy and yet with nice acidity to the taste, these were easy to fall in love with and we had lots of anonas. Cheap also. I later found out they have an English name as well; apple custard, due to the custard taste. If you're visiting Madeira don't forget there's more than wine to the island. A dozen different kinds of passion fruits and several different kinds of avokado's is a good start to explore the edible part of Madeira!

I never thought I was going to say it. I've tasted a Pinotage I like! Ok, so it was a blend with Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah as well but the fact remains; no burnt scents. Invited to taste the portfolio of the newly started Vinriket, a Swedish importer exclusively offering South African wines, I found myself being really impressed by the wines the two young guys had selected to start with.

Start cautiously is a smart move but the eight wines offered clearly shows good value from South Africa. Especially a most impressive 2006 De Heuvel Shiraz from Swartland (91-92 p). Still young but opening up beautifully in the glass. Rhone followers will not get disappointed on this one which resembles the style of a Saint Joseph a bit. At 159 SEK (around EUR 17) it outrivals many Rhone Syrah's.

Another winner is the 2009 Knorhoek Two Cubs White Blend (87-88 p). Equal parts of Sauvignon blanc and Chenin blanc are perhaps an unusual marriage but here it's most successful. Tasted blind (not the case here) I would not be surprised if I'd placed it in Loire and as a Menetou-Salon or Sancerre. Lots of mineral and green notes to this one. Refreshing acidity and a restrained palate. In Sweden, 99 SEK (around 10 Euros). It would be fun to battle it with a Loire wine!

What about the Pinotage then? Well, the 2007 Lindsay’s Whimsy (88-89 p) from Slaley Estate in Simonsberg-Stellenbosch is a real crowd pleaser. Perhaps a bit too oaky for my palate but still it's pure in its fruit, well balanced and with refreshing acidity. It's nice to kick out some prejudices - I'm doing it all the time now it seems.

Next newsletter: an impressive and quite tannic Cote de Brouilly showing the diversity of 2009 Beaujolais!

An obsolete saying, or: When the 'Old world' is more likely to be Australia and not its counterparts in Europe!

2010-10-20T11:44:00.003+02:00

Wines from the old world and wines from the new world.

Isn't it time to get rid of these obsolete categorizations? Besides only strengthening prejudices, what good does the terms do today? Is Europe really all about food friendly wines, a respect for the wines place of origin and adaptation to climate and soil? And are the wine laws in the European wine regions a good thing only - isn't it a risk they tend to preserve tradition even when it's not always good?

Speaking for myself perhaps, I am dead tired of still reading prejudiced categorizations. Googling 'new world wines' gave me one hit after the other mockering the wines as flavored booze, industrialized, oak driven monsters or overripe....well, let's stop there. You get the point. The old and new world doesn't exist anymore. Everyone would benefit from applying terms as traditional vs modern or old school vs new school instead of preserving an archaic system based on geography.

Preserving the 'old and the new world categorization' makes me wonder where a region like for example Douro are to be placed. Sure, when it comes to port wine it's traditional as few but what about the table wine industry which only has about twenty years of age in the region? The grapes are old and local yes, but the techniques used are in many wines more of the character we like to describe as 'new world'! A majority of Douro table wine is searching for it's identity when many 'new world' regions has found it a long time ago. Let's skip the holiness surrounding European wines and just consider the following:

If old vines are a sign of a long established wine cultivation tradition, well then I suppose 100 years old Carmenère's in Chile or 150 years old Grenache from Barossa are hard to beat.

Many 2007 Chateauneufs-du-Pape managed to climb over 16% and still taste sweet. Why is it cool with high alcohol content if its European? Don't forget top-notch Chateau's such as La Mission Haut-Brion and Troplong-Mondot in 2009; 14,7% and 15,5%. That much? Oh, cool! A new 1947 Cheval Blanc!

Ungrafted vines anyone? Where will you find most of them? Colares? Or Chile, Argentina and Australia?

It took until 2005 before Trebbiano was excluded from the official DOCG Chianti Classico. Why did it take so long and why was it mandatory from the beginning? Aaah, the beauty of the 'Old world'.

Let's stick with the Italian DOCG classification; who was this created for in the first place? The consumers? Then one must ask why the first denominated DOCG wine region was the white Albana di Romagna...

Which one is most likely a 'new world' Pinot; Felton Road from Central Otago or Dominique Laurent from Burgundy? On what criterias should the wines be measured?

3 1/2 years in 100% new oak - that's a fact when it comes to the fantastic LaLaLa wines of Guigal. Are we critic? Noooo..

In 2007 I tasted a cask sample of an Erdener Treppchen fermented to a dry wine since that is what many Germans ask for today, the winemaker told me. 16%! Last week I tasted a beautifully crafted Aussie; the 2004 The Contours from Pewsey Vale (see below). Still youthful, slatey, bonedry and with lovely precision. 12,5%. Now, who's the monster?

Before moving on; I'm NOT in pursuit of European wines. Heck no; I love them, collect them and drink them! But the unfair categorizations doesn't deliver anything good. Keeping them just enhances the difficulties many non-European winery's faces every day to receive acknowledgment for the incredible and many times, more traditional wines they produce than 'the old world'.

Two specific wines made me thinking. Chateau Tahbilk's 150th Anniversary Commemorative Release 2000 - the '1949 Vines' Cabernet Sauvignon from the Nagambie Lakes region in Victoria, and Eden Valley's Pewsey Vale 2004 The Contours Riesling. Both wines stay true to their origin but are shaped in a traditional style which I'm sure many wouldn't place in Australia when tasted blind. True to origin and still tough to identify as a 'new world' wine; contradictive? Let's find out!

Starting with the Riesling, The Contours offers something extraordinary in today's freeway of wine. The premium bottling is only released five years after the vintage and although showing signs of maturity it still has plenty of years ahead. The vineyard, planted in 1961, lies nearly 500 meters above sea level in Eden Valley and are synonymous with Australia's best Riesling region. To preserve the Riesling fruit the wines doesn't undergo any malolactic fermentation.

Screw cap! Man I love it. I'm so tired of uncorking tainted wines, especially when one really can question the choice of cork. Stubbornness, fear, disrespect for the consumer or just plain arrogance; why are so many wines not intended for ageing still sealed with a cork? And yes, you can age wine sealed with a screwcap if you didn't know that dear producer!

Right after unscrewing the 2004 offers fine petroleum scents, grass, lime peel, apples, a floral feeling and a hint of peaches. I've noted a tropical feel in many German Rieslings as well so this one's tough to identify as Eden Valley. At least on the nose.

On the palate however it is not as German although the wine is bonedry, shows fine acidity and has plenty of mineral feel. No, the lime zest and the slightly fatter fruit are different but not in the meaning less good. The balance between the components are in real harmony and the purity of the aftertaste is long and lingering. Tasted over three days and it just kept going. A remarkable wine and it gets better!

I normally don't put too much efforts in relating to the QPR but in this case it's inevitable. In UK, at BBR, it's £13,46 when you buy a case,otherwise £14,95. With some fine starting maturity that's an argument hard to neglect if you're on the search for great dry Riesling. And, do I need to say it, doesn't give a d--n where the wine originates from!

By the way; what a pairing with scallops in coconut cream, kaffir, garlic, sprouts, red pepper, cabbage and a hint of red chili!

(2004 The Contours, Pewsey Vale, Eden Valley, 91-92 points)

Moving on to the Tahbilk wine. As the name indicates the Cabernet grapes for the Anniversary bottle are sourced from a site planted in 1949. Tahbilk is blessed with some really old vines. Besides the Cabernet Sauvignon there's also one Shiraz site from 1933, a small plot of ungrafted Shiraz vines from 1860 and a Marsanne site from 1927. Ok, let's not focus on old vines but still; it's not an exaggeration saying this is hard to beat.

Tahbilk was founded the same year as their oldest Shiraz site; 1860. Sure, they haven't been doing great stuff since back then but they've been around and that counts as well.

When an Aussie with a decade of ageing shows up on the shelves it's easy to pick up a bottle or two. Especially considering it's only EUR 30 and the fact I need to taste more mature wines from down under. Mature by the way; boy is that the wrong picture of the 1949 Vines! Sure, it shows starting maturity but still has plenty of years ahead of development.

The 2000 Anniversary wine is given three hours in the decanter. Due to a quite heavy deposit it is also actually decanted. The bouquet is a classic one with complex scents of lead pencil, dried hay, licorice, humus, integrated oak, blackcurrants and pipe tobacco. Blind I would be searching through Medoc, at least initially but after a while in the glass the wine shows an eucalyptus scent which helps identifying the wine. On the other hand; I often find mint in Medoc wines so perhaps this isn't helping at all?

On the palate it shows elegance, fine balance, lovely maturing tannins and a dry taste. The fruit is sun drenched but never makes the taste sweet. A grassy feel to it, licorice, blackcurrants, violets, eucalyptus and nicely integrated toasted oak. Tobacco! Fine acidity and a long refreshing finish. If you like your wines even older this one will manage at least five more years without doubt. I'd drink it within two or three years though to assure it goes well with my preferences. Only 13% and again; this is more traditional than many Bordeaux wines!

Also, don't forget the 2008 Marsanne which is the best vintage I've tasted in years from Tahbilk (88-89 p)

(2000, 1949 Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, Ch. Tahbilk, Victoria, 93-94 p)

Chateau Tahbilk and Pewsey Vale - when the 'old world' is more likely to be Australia than its counterparts in Europe!

Weekly reflections of a wine lover - #59

2010-10-15T17:04:00.000+02:00

It's been a while. Actually a bit more than that. A gap of 217 days between my weekly reflections wasn't my intention but as with most things in life you come to that certain point when it's not funny anymore. I've been there for a while now. Although writing is my opium I've reached that moment when I'm wondering why my muse has abandoned me. Fine, I'll do it myself then I thought - and while brainstorming ideas for new blog material approaches I suddenly realized my old weekly newsletter! It was great to write and actually my most popular feature amongst you readers. So therefore I stopped writing it. Duh?

Back from the darkness!

Well, read it or not; my weekly newsletter is back on track and will be a part of the 'new' features on my blog trilogy. Here you go - #59!

So, why this blog depression? No worries if you like what I'm doing. I just love to exaggerate. It all started with me being bored of just delivering tasting notes and introductions to wine producers. That resulted in more extended postings formed as interviews with people I admire. Fun to write and hopefully fun to read. At least the stats gave some indication that I was on the right track. Besides, it generates a direct contact with the producer and gives me the necessary kick. So, inspired to the maximum I started brainstorming ideas and from now on I will do my very best to deliver a mix of stories on my blogs. From my very own thoughts that sometimes might become off-topic or which simply just wants to inspire or raise a thought, to presentations of people that deserve some attention for what they're doing.

For me, a blog/blog writer is all about trying to be dynamic and not afraid of change. New discoveries arise along the way all the time and also new preferences. Hopefully you, dear reader, will stay static though and continue reading Mise en bouteille!

I like the fall. Not when it's only windy and plenty of rain no, but the changing of colors are just as nice as the springtime's bud breaking. Besides, some wines do taste better when the cold weather hits us and when it's really, really nasty outside it's a comfort knowing one can pop bottled sunshine and instantly be transferred to the summertime!

I admit it. I drink Madeira all year around. However, with the forests filled with fungus all I can think of is.....Madeira! A creamy soup with mushrooms and a glass of either a Sercial, Verdelho or a dryer style of Terrantez is an unmatched pairing. Can I be picky? Make sure the Madeira has some age to it - then the combination is unrivalled.

If I may stretch my humbleness for a moment I have over the years developed a quite tasty mushroom soup recipe. Do you want it then let me know!

It's so sad to read that Marcel Lapierre has passed away. Especially a region like Beaujolais needs a person like Marcel. Someone with integrity and passion showing there's more to the region than lawsuits.

There's been a lot of negative attention surrounding Beaujolais the last 10 years. From court cases where the producers sued a local newspaper for the denigration of French products (Yes, such a law exists in France!), attempts of mixing a superior vintage with a lesser one to the last case in 2007 when 600 tonnes of sugar were bought by Beaujolais producers. And according to the lawsuit the sugar wasn't for the daily coffee or to bake cakes, but used for illegal chaptalization.

Besides the time spent in court rooms, the Beaujolais' has themselves partly to blame and especially that third Thursday every November. 'Le Beaujolais nouveau est arrivé!' is a marketing campaign of great success and a schoolbook example of how you keep your inventory as short time as possible.

Having all this in mind, it's easy to forget that there are the likes of Marcel Lapierre in Beaujolais. Furthermore, 2009 may be the very best vintage in decades and with all negative media attention the last 10 years, prices remain extremely low for the quality given. I love Gamay and can't miss out on an opportunity like this. When you get Cru Beaujolais wines from terroir driven estates, some even from single vineyards and 70-80 years old vines at £10-15 a bottle, well, what are you waiting for then?

I've bought a mixed case of 2009 to taste through and will present one in the newsletter each week. Forget about all in the past and have a 2009. Believe me, they might be the very best buys France has to offer at the moment!

Beaujolais it is. First out is the 2009 Fleurie La Roilette Vieilles Vignes from Domaine Metrat. A small domaine run by Sylvain Métrat and his father-in-law Michel Chevalier. The old vines surrounds the winery and there is a layer of clay on top of the granite soil resulting in a, for many, atypical Fleurie. The Gamay grapes are hand-harvested and has then undergone a short fermentation of seven days (whole bunch fermentation). Then aged in wooden casks for 6-9 months.

Seductive nose with hints of cherries, rasberrry's, oozing mineral, lead pencil, floral notes and sweet root. Man, I love this nose. On the palate the charming continues. Sweet berries, fine tickling acidity and a fat Gamay feel to it which is even more seductive at 14 C serving temperature. Floral and lead pencil again. Just a hint of tannins giving that needed structure. Long taste. A great start on my 12 bottles 2009 journey around Beaujolais! (91-92 points, bought at BBR)

Next newsletter; perhaps the best ordinary Beaujoalis bottling I've had!

Can I change my mind? I normally never write a post on a wine I've found disappointing. At least not if I've only tasted one bottle. It's not fair to the producer, the importer, myself or the reader. So much can go wrong. I could just be having one of those days, had the wine at the wrong temperature, savoured it from a crappy glass, tasted a slightly flaw bottle or had a cold coming. Perhaps the wine needed aeration and I wasn't possible to give it the time.

It's easy to act a critic but being one comes with both responsibility and respect for the people that is affected. If you're going to criticize the wine then make sure you are really sure.

I've had the 2007 Picos do Couto from FTP Vinhos earlier this year. Nope, you won't find a post on it but I did leave a note somewhere to a fellow blogger which had also tasted the wine and also showed a bit of disappointment. Not that the Dão wine was bad, not at all, just anonymous and a bit dull.

Thinking back I should have known better. The glasses weren't optimal and the fact it was a pop'n pour should be enough to keep my mouth shut. Or at least my writing. Picos do Couto deserves a new chance and since I consider myself a Dãoist I know these bottles need time. Touriga Nacional can be a sturdy queen but when awakened she's shows her royal blood! Bottle opened and put in decanter for several hours. Then poured in Burgundy glasses which I prefer having my Dão served in.

Oops! Is this really the same wine as I had some months ago? Filled with dark berries, the classic violet note, ground coffee, dark chocolate and humus. Splendid concentration on the nose and quite elegant. On the palate it shows good grip, fine tannins and that to-die-for Dão acidity. Sweet liqorice, blackberries, toasted oak and a floral scent. Quite long taste and clearly a wine with some ageing possibilities, say four or five years from now. just kept on delivering during the evening.

From now on, i will try to learn to keep my mouth shut if i don't follow my own rules. Retailing in Sweden at a most fair price. (87-88 points)

I obviously have good friends. Friends that also appreciate our company and know my preferences. But what's funny is that with two weeks interval I was poured first a rare 2003 Moscato Rosa from Cantina Tramin in Südtirol, Alto Adige (91-92 points) and then at another dinner, a just as rare 1995 Gewurztraminer from J. Hofstätter in Südtirol (92-93 points)!

My fascination over perfumed wines are probably related to age. I'm 38 now and ten years ago I would have rejected the wines as old peoples drink. Well, it's time to wake up. Either I'm getting old or I just wasn't prepared for the floral and perfumed scents.

What struck me most with the Südtirol wines was that they were so alive and kickin'. Both served with ice-cream rivaling Tokaji as my preferred choice to creamy vanilla ice.

Why does it have to differ so between transport companies policies? One shows great flexibility and quickly changes delivery address to the job when I can't be at home during the day. The other refuses and says the sender needs to request this. Well, thank you very much. First of all they only deliver between 10:00 and 14:00 and if I need to change address I am reminded that they're just the final delivery guys and they have received the shipment from a partner. Two days of extra time and phone calls. Why? Are they in desperate need of gaining more work? I mean, it's all about showing some id for me in the end anyway so it shouldn't matter? Or am I missing something here? Do anyone of you out there have a job? Or are you just sitting home ordering wine all day long?

Finally, soon coming up on the blog: a discussion concerning the obsolete use of new world and old world wines. Guest starring: Chateau Tahbilk and Pewsey Vale.